AR
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Pine Box
Yesterday I made an ascent of an amazing steep and tall granite arete called 'Pine Box V11/12'. It had exfoliated a little bit as it is a new problem found and climbed by my friend Justin Alarcon. The lips on two of the holds had significantly decreased which made the climb much harder and forced different beta than the original condition dictated. The boulder also goes under the full value category as the top out is committing and sequence dependent. The grade is a bit of a question mark but I had an extremely fun time climbing on it and it is double digit-something. I will add some images of the ascent soon and hope you are all out there enjoying cool conditions.
On the Migration Station
Lack of a computer has done a bit to stifle the update train but lets get it back on track. A bout of really nasty weather pretty much California as a whole and unlike the dry rockies and desert environments Yosemite Valley holds onto its moisture like a pit-bulls lock-jaw. So that meant training on a wet 45woody in the back yard. After sufficiently loosing my mind with not climbing I acquires a radical camera and proceeded to take shots of everything under the sun, which ended up being little because we were socked in with gloomy clouds for quite some time. And just when the world seemed to be getting smaller by the minute without any rock-scaling in the over a week my phone decided to snap in half, which of course exasperated the walls that were actually closing in!!
But alas the clouds broke long enough to allow some modicum of climbing conditions and I knew it was time to get back to the Valley, wet or not. I permanently left my dwellings in Fresno and waved goodbye to all that chapter held and didn't hold alike. A one way trip to the Valley, it was not planned and logistically its been a bit of an epic but the absolute right move to make.
Upon my drop off I met up with the Colorado Crew and and the vibe was on. So Psyched to be back into it. As a psyched climber it seems that the overlap with drug addicts is closer than some might like to acknowledge. Life was good and the vibes were excellent and the session productive. I tried 'Yabo Roof V11/12' and surprised myself and then came very close to the 'Yabo Face V11' in just a couple of goes and Chris Shulte snapped up the second ascent, good work. I am super psyched on getting back to this boulder and it stellar problems.
The next day reunion with Pete led to some classic climbing in cap four which was a blast including the historical rocks such as 'Cocaine Corner V5', 'Blue Suede Shoes V4', 'Initial Friction V1' ect, ect.
Then came the rain. This would be extremely news worthy except my lack of tent and appropriate sleeping bag prompted quite the search for overhanging(read; dry) ground to sleep. And for those that know about Yosemite granite this can be few and far between. After some very cold sleepless nights and equally rough rest days the conditions allowed climbing again. I climbed an amazing problem called, 'Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass V9' on the infamous Columbia Boulder. I sent very quickly which set good spirits for me and the fun just continued.
I think Bishop is next...
Note: The power of positivity and friendship in climbing has become more obvious than ever and it is the company we hold that makes the difference between a feeling of work and an explosion of excellence. Thanks to all the Bro's.
AR
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Yosemite and the Fresno New New
Since we last spoke(by the way the most contrived method of opening a blog post) lots has happened. I have sorta moved into the starkly different Fresno, CA. Why, you might ask, this is certainly a great switch from your previous home, oh wait I did not have a home before this!! But in all seriousness my good friend Jacob lives in Fresno and as an active and staple developer of the Yosemite bouldering scene it seemed only appropriate that I take him up on his offer to crash and establish boulder problem in the famed 'Valley'. I have been down in this area for a week now and have already spent 4 days in the Valley, including today until a near tragic ankle sprain took my dear friend Catrina out of the game and sent us back to Fresno in hopes of speeding here rehab.
Although I feel like I am in total school learning the climbing style and technique required on not so steep granite I have managed to climb some stellar lines. 'The King V8', 'Silly Roof V7', 'Chocolate Bunny V6', 'The Diamond Left V6', 'Kudra V6' and flashing a nice V6(unnamed) in Camp 4 have been some highlights. It is taking alot but I am building that ever so important kinesthetic rolodex.
I arrived in Fresno via public train instead of gassing up a personal vehicle and since have been learning about electronics and their installation as part of my new 'tag along with Jacob' Job. Many hours have been spent carpooling back and forth to Yosemite Valley and these roads have now taken on quite the identity. They are no longer twisty winds up into the great sierras but an amalgam of provocative conversation leading to the ever expanding personal insight we all work so hard to gain. That is a whirlwind I know...but for now I wish all of you well and perhaps you will see me scouring the woods looking for boulders and wondering the streets lookin' for conversation. Just remember, "Not all who wonder are lost"
ARockstad
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Hardly, Strictly...Love?Past?
Since we last spoke the past has come into the periphery of life in the most interesting of ways. On Friday the weather seemed grim for rock-scaling in Northern California so I decided to bounce up to San Fransisco with friend Pete Finn. The method travel was hitch-hiking at it purest, from the door of my house to Golden Gate Park it was all thumbs up. Five rides and less than two hours(Must be because I shaved and they could see my beautiful face) we were watching amazing free music in GGP courtesy of 'Hardly, Strictly, Bluegrass'. The objective for the day was to see Robert Plant play with Alison Krauss and this was achieved in geat style in help by many a great person along the way. I was also fortunate enough to has a bit of a listen to Elvis Costello, Micky Hart, topped of Iron & Wine.
There was time spent with old friends, thinking about old friends, strolls along Haight(Where Caroline Hooked it up!!!Nepotism-What What) of course the beats of LoveFest. All of which brought the past to the present. Amazing.
I usually keep the blog to climbing but as a break this is what I have been up to besides training. And to right and wrongs here are some nostalgia climbing shots at college hangouts like the Spray Boulder and Hueco Tanks, TX. Thanks for all the support.
Martini Roof, Hueco Tanks, TX, Photo:Craig Copeland
V7+ in the Spray Cave, ElevenMile, CO, Photos:Hayden Miller
There was time spent with old friends, thinking about old friends, strolls along Haight(Where Caroline Hooked it up!!!Nepotism-What What) of course the beats of LoveFest. All of which brought the past to the present. Amazing.
I usually keep the blog to climbing but as a break this is what I have been up to besides training. And to right and wrongs here are some nostalgia climbing shots at college hangouts like the Spray Boulder and Hueco Tanks, TX. Thanks for all the support.
Martini Roof, Hueco Tanks, TX, Photo:Craig CopelandV7+ in the Spray Cave, ElevenMile, CO, Photos:Hayden Miller
Monday, September 29, 2008
Yosemite Facelift 2008
Still feelin' a little juiced from the long trip to Africa I was thinking more aout some local boulder reconnaissance but when I heard the Yosemite Facelift(note-an annual climber powered park wide clean-up) was going on starting on Wed and roling on through 'til Sunday I thought to myself why not? It was kind of a big trip from up here in wine country NorCal and called for several bus trips and an eventual meet up with a Craigs List ride from the bay area. After hours of interesting conversations with the local transportations proprietors I arrived in the majestic land known by many as 'The Valley'.
It was extremely hot(red-85degrees and up) everyday and I spent much of my time picking up trash and helping to organize the event which brought an amazing 50,000lbs of trash in from all over the park. I was psyched to be experiencing such an amazing part of climbing history from every angle and know I will spending a lot of time hear in the future.
I was psyched to climb and at least experience what all the talk was of Yosemite bouldering. I saw only a few of the areas, Camp 4, LeConte(KING AIR!!!), and the Cathedrals. As it was extremely hot I climbed at night when all were asleep and the event needed no more help for the day. The problems in Camp 4 move amazingly. Despite the heat I climbed 'Torque Spanner V8' and 'Ament Arete V6' very quikly after discovering there many tricks. I am psyched on a return to The Valley come some better temps and can now see the draw that pulls some people in and often never lets them go.
It was extremely hot(red-85degrees and up) everyday and I spent much of my time picking up trash and helping to organize the event which brought an amazing 50,000lbs of trash in from all over the park. I was psyched to be experiencing such an amazing part of climbing history from every angle and know I will spending a lot of time hear in the future.
I was psyched to climb and at least experience what all the talk was of Yosemite bouldering. I saw only a few of the areas, Camp 4, LeConte(KING AIR!!!), and the Cathedrals. As it was extremely hot I climbed at night when all were asleep and the event needed no more help for the day. The problems in Camp 4 move amazingly. Despite the heat I climbed 'Torque Spanner V8' and 'Ament Arete V6' very quikly after discovering there many tricks. I am psyched on a return to The Valley come some better temps and can now see the draw that pulls some people in and often never lets them go.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
A family variety in NorCal
Today I headed out with my mom to hunt down some blocks here in Northern California. We were to meet up with friend and psyched climber Richie to get a little tour but there was a communication break down and it looked bleak for a minute. But not to worry, Richie hooked me up ith another psyched local, Ryan. Ryan has put a bunch of great work into developing these great boulders on the coast and beyond. Needless to say it is super rad to keep connecting with all these great psyched people and insta friends.
First stop was the Fort Ross Boulder. I was quite taken by climbing on the beach and as my friend Hayden can testify it is 'very powerful'. This boulder stands as a crown the joins the land with the Pacific Ocean. The tide was rising the whole day and was for sure giving the boulder some spray. The rock-type was a sandstone conglomerate and had very good friction. I was able to climb a proud and stout V6 but more importantly it felt good to move the body on stone again.
Next stop was to get a preview of some amazing blue schist crimping just inland. I am very psyched on spending time there in the near future and I also ended the day flashing a very nice and striking prow, 'Walk The Plank V6'. It was a god excursion. Friends were made, beaches were frolicked, crimps were had and boulders were climbed. Psyched.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Sweet Boulder, CA
Today I went out to break my mold of comas, jetlag, and internet sleuthing. I am trying to get recovered from such a long session of rugged, cheap, and amenity devoid lifestyle. But Today I went to go and check out some boulder that a rad friend, Richie, had discovered. The rock type was a metamorphosed schist which made for some extremely crimpy and sharp climbing. I temps were hot and I cut my pads up pretty god but it was good to go on a mini-excursion in comparison and I at least got move my body over some stone. What I am really psyched for is tommarrow in which Richie will give a tour of the real biz. Stay tuned and here are some pics.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Africa Files 19- Thank You
The trip is now over and upon just preliminary reflection it was the raddest trip!!!!Super good in so many ways. I have so many thankyouzzzzz to be dropping to so many people that made my trip a success either through contact or just sharing moments together. I received amazing support from my dear friend Thys, whom owns and operates the Depakhuys Farm. For those looking for logistics upon Rocklands bouldering and organizing a trip you should feel free to leave a comment on my blog and I will get back to you and also give a good look at http://www.Depakhuys.com/ for pictures and a way to contact Thys. Depakhuys has an amazing campground with hit water and showers for the equivalent of US$5 a night with a lesser rate for longer stays, definatley the best deal in the Cederberg. There re also chalets for the indoors inclined sleepers that are quite nice. And most importantly there are some the most amazing boulders and bouldering sectors on the Depakhuys Farm including the famous Fields of Joy and Plateau Sectors. It is truely an amazing farm and one that I will call home again.
I would just like to say thank you to all of you that helped make this trip happen including you blog readers!!It was an amazing trip and your hosbitality and openess of the greatest bouldering areana I have ever seen is so appreciated...thank you.
I would just like to say thank you to all of you that helped make this trip happen including you blog readers!!It was an amazing trip and your hosbitality and openess of the greatest bouldering areana I have ever seen is so appreciated...thank you.
Africa Files 18- The Wrap-Up
The last week in Rocklands proved to be troublesome with the weather but an amazing time full of things, not just climbing. The weather was sporadic at best with rain and Antarctic storms rolling through. I worked on a project with my friend Eric Klimt(CC Graduate). It was a movie about the industry of that climbing is growing into for the Cederberg region(read;Rocklands). It was full of interviews with climbers and landowners with the intent of educating and explaining the opportunities and future that climbing can bring to them. It was extremely well received when you showed it at a farmer gathering. I think that this is an important step in the progress and insurance in the climbing future of the Cederberg and felt great to be a part of that.
As for climbing I tried and sent some of the best problems of the trip. I went out on raining day with my buddy Pete and his newly arrived girl friend to finally try the beautiful 'Gliding THrough Waves Like Dolphins V11' I was a little bummed that I had not tried it until the very end of trip because it went extremely well. I flashed through a great deal of the problem and then ADD rampaged the rest of problem for two hours until it was fairly clear what my method would be. The increasing wetness eventually caused me leave but very psyched to return on a further trip.
I got in some good sessions at the Field of Joy sector on Depakhuys Farm that were for the most part dry. I was able to climb in the excellent Dirty Lies Cave for obvious dryness issues. I climbed 'Dirty Lies Right Exit V9' on my second go and the full line of 'Dirty Lies Extension V8/9?', it is hard for me t grade these ones because long climbing and links are not my forte and I don't have that much experience there but they were rad and quite obvious addition to current cave lines. I began giving 'No Late Tenders V11' send burns but I tweaked my shoulder and resigned that one to the next trip list. I also climbing this really rad gritty line 'Panic Room V7' that Klem put up some time ago. It was originally done with a fairly indirect finish that reahed the lip and then began traversing out around the corner on jugs but seamed fairly inobvious to me so and the crew set out to straighten it up and to finish it up with one of the only desperate topouts in all of Rocklands, for sure a great line now.
I was also fortunate to return to the Sassies Sector for one last day on thee great problems, but there is a catch. The catch was it happened to be a 90+Degree(F) day which is just another sign on the Cederberg season ending. This temperature offered an unexpected gift but we will get t that later. I climbed this super classic rad line 'Petite Hueco V8' which is made famous in Chuck's film Specimen. It was yet another very long boulder problems and extremely poor conditions so it felt like quite the accomplishment. I also tried this amazing problem called 'Paula Abdul V11' and made rad progress considering that I was only falling on one move but the rest were on lock down so it is another line to returned to, psyched for next season.
As for climbing I tried and sent some of the best problems of the trip. I went out on raining day with my buddy Pete and his newly arrived girl friend to finally try the beautiful 'Gliding THrough Waves Like Dolphins V11' I was a little bummed that I had not tried it until the very end of trip because it went extremely well. I flashed through a great deal of the problem and then ADD rampaged the rest of problem for two hours until it was fairly clear what my method would be. The increasing wetness eventually caused me leave but very psyched to return on a further trip.
I got in some good sessions at the Field of Joy sector on Depakhuys Farm that were for the most part dry. I was able to climb in the excellent Dirty Lies Cave for obvious dryness issues. I climbed 'Dirty Lies Right Exit V9' on my second go and the full line of 'Dirty Lies Extension V8/9?', it is hard for me t grade these ones because long climbing and links are not my forte and I don't have that much experience there but they were rad and quite obvious addition to current cave lines. I began giving 'No Late Tenders V11' send burns but I tweaked my shoulder and resigned that one to the next trip list. I also climbing this really rad gritty line 'Panic Room V7' that Klem put up some time ago. It was originally done with a fairly indirect finish that reahed the lip and then began traversing out around the corner on jugs but seamed fairly inobvious to me so and the crew set out to straighten it up and to finish it up with one of the only desperate topouts in all of Rocklands, for sure a great line now.
I was also fortunate to return to the Sassies Sector for one last day on thee great problems, but there is a catch. The catch was it happened to be a 90+Degree(F) day which is just another sign on the Cederberg season ending. This temperature offered an unexpected gift but we will get t that later. I climbed this super classic rad line 'Petite Hueco V8' which is made famous in Chuck's film Specimen. It was yet another very long boulder problems and extremely poor conditions so it felt like quite the accomplishment. I also tried this amazing problem called 'Paula Abdul V11' and made rad progress considering that I was only falling on one move but the rest were on lock down so it is another line to returned to, psyched for next season.
Friday, September 5, 2008
Africa Files-Part 17-Okay, back to climbing!!
Since we last spoke the Rocklands and thus myself experienced a hurricane like storm consisting of gale force wind up to 90km/ph which essentially decimated the campsite I have been running(aka massive clean up). Needless to say the internet has been down in the entire Cederberg region for a while, but were back.
On a personnal note I have been starting to return in strength, ability, and overall psyched after my health epic. My gas tank still feels very small and I get tired very quickly but I have been able to climb at a nice level again. On the last day of the storm I had the privelege of watch Dosage 5, and must say that I am super psyched with this end product from the prolific climbing film maker Josh Lowell, a Colorado College grad no less. This came at an excellent time because the next day was wet but climbable and I went out for a session in which to my surprise I climbed 'Human Energy V8' and 'Human Energy Direct V7' both on my second go. I was way psyched to be able to move my body again after so much downtime. The next day I tried climbing again I climbed a bunch of beautiful climbs, such as 'Esoterrorist V6' second go. At the end of day I headed to the classic Poison Dwarf boulder to try the direct to a line that I had already done 'Poison Dwarf V8'. The direct was originally graded V11 or 8A but to me seemed to be the true line on the boulder that combines all the best moves. So I set to work on the additional three crux moves to the direct and eventually got them. Then I decided to get a link of the upper moves and I pulled that off, psyched into the progress of that alone I knew the whole boulder was a possibility but it was getting dark and I had not eaten in hours and skin was low. My friend Eric Klimt had lent me his iPod as a climbing partner for the day and MIA seemed a comical and psyche filled option to be listening to as I contemplated the whole boulder. Alright, time for the 'try hard' attempt but a beta fumble caused an early departure from the rock. So there I sat completely psyched and almost in the darkness alone trying to muster a send that would mean a bunch after my hospitalization. I told myself if this goes well I will take a rest on the next day. Paper Planes the MIA song came on and I thought it appropriate to make my attempt on 'Poison Dwarf Direct V9?'. Totally psyched I pulled through all the moves with great execution an then I was topping out, SO PSYCHED. It felt so great to be back and part of rock-climbing again. So as I promised myself I took the next day off and it was a good thing because I was gassed.
The next climbing day I tried this rad problem called 'Throw Yourself Away V11' as I supported my friend Matt Ballard on an amazing problem 'Born Into Struggle V9' that I had done before my incident. Matt is a centimeter away from sending and I am sure the next we go up he will dispatch. I was also surprise because I just have to do one more move on 'Throw Yourself Away V11' and then it could go. After this session Matt and I headed to another cave because of the heat in an effort to stay away from the sun and to try a problem called 'Louder Than Bombs V9'. We had a great session and at the end I pulled out a one day ascent that I am really happy with. So now it is another day of because as I mention earlier my stamina is minimal but I am psyched. I am climbing well and I feel nowhere near my top shape yet, so I am extremey psyched!!On climbing and the direction I am on. AR
On a personnal note I have been starting to return in strength, ability, and overall psyched after my health epic. My gas tank still feels very small and I get tired very quickly but I have been able to climb at a nice level again. On the last day of the storm I had the privelege of watch Dosage 5, and must say that I am super psyched with this end product from the prolific climbing film maker Josh Lowell, a Colorado College grad no less. This came at an excellent time because the next day was wet but climbable and I went out for a session in which to my surprise I climbed 'Human Energy V8' and 'Human Energy Direct V7' both on my second go. I was way psyched to be able to move my body again after so much downtime. The next day I tried climbing again I climbed a bunch of beautiful climbs, such as 'Esoterrorist V6' second go. At the end of day I headed to the classic Poison Dwarf boulder to try the direct to a line that I had already done 'Poison Dwarf V8'. The direct was originally graded V11 or 8A but to me seemed to be the true line on the boulder that combines all the best moves. So I set to work on the additional three crux moves to the direct and eventually got them. Then I decided to get a link of the upper moves and I pulled that off, psyched into the progress of that alone I knew the whole boulder was a possibility but it was getting dark and I had not eaten in hours and skin was low. My friend Eric Klimt had lent me his iPod as a climbing partner for the day and MIA seemed a comical and psyche filled option to be listening to as I contemplated the whole boulder. Alright, time for the 'try hard' attempt but a beta fumble caused an early departure from the rock. So there I sat completely psyched and almost in the darkness alone trying to muster a send that would mean a bunch after my hospitalization. I told myself if this goes well I will take a rest on the next day. Paper Planes the MIA song came on and I thought it appropriate to make my attempt on 'Poison Dwarf Direct V9?'. Totally psyched I pulled through all the moves with great execution an then I was topping out, SO PSYCHED. It felt so great to be back and part of rock-climbing again. So as I promised myself I took the next day off and it was a good thing because I was gassed.
The next climbing day I tried this rad problem called 'Throw Yourself Away V11' as I supported my friend Matt Ballard on an amazing problem 'Born Into Struggle V9' that I had done before my incident. Matt is a centimeter away from sending and I am sure the next we go up he will dispatch. I was also surprise because I just have to do one more move on 'Throw Yourself Away V11' and then it could go. After this session Matt and I headed to another cave because of the heat in an effort to stay away from the sun and to try a problem called 'Louder Than Bombs V9'. We had a great session and at the end I pulled out a one day ascent that I am really happy with. So now it is another day of because as I mention earlier my stamina is minimal but I am psyched. I am climbing well and I feel nowhere near my top shape yet, so I am extremey psyched!!On climbing and the direction I am on. AR
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Africa Files-Part 16-Pics
Friday, August 29, 2008
Africa Files- Part 15-The Return
So at the beginning of the week I returned back to this home I have carved out in the Cederberg mountains. It was great to see the friendly faces of climbers and such that I have really bonded with already.
It has been an interesting mix of gratefulness and disheartening, because I am able to rock-climb again but my body took quite the knock with this whole ordeal and the reality is my physical state shows this. Like I said not a bummer but just an interesting dichotomy. That being said I have made it to the top of some things. I did 'Dirty Lies V8' in a few minutes after falling on the top out during the flash. I worked 'Nutsa V12', it sounds really hard but with the quikness that I did 'Sunset Arete V9' it is surprisingly close feeling. At the end of the day I feel ripped up and soar though which is quite the new feeling. Hopefully this is all for the best and I have some more great rock-scaling ahead of me.
I have done some internet sleuthing in my down time and must say that it is good hear about all the psyche and good climbing happening in CO and hope that it continues. I will also put in some great shots that my friend Matt took of my first day back so stay tuned and most importantly stay psyched. AR
It has been an interesting mix of gratefulness and disheartening, because I am able to rock-climb again but my body took quite the knock with this whole ordeal and the reality is my physical state shows this. Like I said not a bummer but just an interesting dichotomy. That being said I have made it to the top of some things. I did 'Dirty Lies V8' in a few minutes after falling on the top out during the flash. I worked 'Nutsa V12', it sounds really hard but with the quikness that I did 'Sunset Arete V9' it is surprisingly close feeling. At the end of the day I feel ripped up and soar though which is quite the new feeling. Hopefully this is all for the best and I have some more great rock-scaling ahead of me.
I have done some internet sleuthing in my down time and must say that it is good hear about all the psyche and good climbing happening in CO and hope that it continues. I will also put in some great shots that my friend Matt took of my first day back so stay tuned and most importantly stay psyched. AR
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Africa Files- Part 14-The Rest/Rehab
Atop the beautufl Table Mountain
Looking down a Table Mountain gully into CPT
A Lizard I chilled with atop the mountain, these guys aren't affraid of no ghosts
The bluffs of the twelve appostles into the Atlantic sideSince the last post I have been resting at my dear friends Carol and Stu's house in Cape Town. It has been really excellent to drop off of the radar(my own included) and just recover from 'that epic'. I have been sleeping alot and consuming great amounts of food in an effortto regain myself. It seems to have worked as well and I am feeling mostly myself again. With almost a week of rest under my belt I have made two quike little adventures, one up to the top of Table Mountain in CPT and the second to Fish Hoek Beach. I am including some pictures of Table Mountain so one can see how beautiful this Cape Town landmark is. On Sunday I head back to Rocklands with renewed psyche, so lets see what happens-AR
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Africa Files-Part13.5-The Epic(cont'd)
Now that the sponge bath was finished it was time to return to my nice old rusty bed. I spent the rest of the day watching my arm to see if the streaks that were heading up my bicep were indeed to stop with the anti-bodies now in my system or to continue to a much more serious state. Eventually the nurse came in a turned on a TV and low and behold possibly the greatest movie of time was playing, Beverley Hills Ninja. So there I lay as an African English Patient and watch Chris Farley, what a life.
Next thing I know I am being woken with great speed as though something is the matter but I soon found that they just don't believe in bed rest and they felt compelled to wake me up pumping a higher dose of anti-bodies into my arm which are very cold compared to the bodies temperature of 98.6DegreesF. The new fluid to my body burns through your vein structure. The sun rose and the day began to pass but the nurses had not come back in to washthe wound as they said and I just took matters into my own hands, literally. I cleaned the wound and then resumed my horizontal life on the bed.
In the late afternoon my friends Greg and Magda came in to the room to check on me and upon my explaination of the stay thus far we all concluded that I should bounce to Cape Town with them. Magda throwing down the local Africaans tongue like a champ and Greg setting up a crash pad bed in the back of his truck I made my exit. Three hours in the back of there truck(bucky) and we were in Sumerset West a town outside of CPT. In the morning Greg drove me a house in the south of CPT were I now reside with my friends and great people Carol and Stuart. After all of this I am quite ready for a break from the mountains and am in need of gettingthis infection squashed. So for now it is avocado sandwhiches in the beautiful botanical back yard Carol and Stu, a welcomed break. AR
Next thing I know I am being woken with great speed as though something is the matter but I soon found that they just don't believe in bed rest and they felt compelled to wake me up pumping a higher dose of anti-bodies into my arm which are very cold compared to the bodies temperature of 98.6DegreesF. The new fluid to my body burns through your vein structure. The sun rose and the day began to pass but the nurses had not come back in to washthe wound as they said and I just took matters into my own hands, literally. I cleaned the wound and then resumed my horizontal life on the bed.
In the late afternoon my friends Greg and Magda came in to the room to check on me and upon my explaination of the stay thus far we all concluded that I should bounce to Cape Town with them. Magda throwing down the local Africaans tongue like a champ and Greg setting up a crash pad bed in the back of his truck I made my exit. Three hours in the back of there truck(bucky) and we were in Sumerset West a town outside of CPT. In the morning Greg drove me a house in the south of CPT were I now reside with my friends and great people Carol and Stuart. After all of this I am quite ready for a break from the mountains and am in need of gettingthis infection squashed. So for now it is avocado sandwhiches in the beautiful botanical back yard Carol and Stu, a welcomed break. AR
Monday, August 18, 2008
Africa Files-Part 13-A series of Unfortunate Events
Hello to al my friend in blog land. I have some less than good news to report, it involves borrwed cars, lots of speeding, needles, hospitals, scalpals, overweight nurses and the subsequent spunge bath, hours in the back of trucks and eventually and delicous avocado on toast.
So it began with a morning and beautiful morning at that. Upon waking I noticed a small red dot on my arm. Thinking nothing of it I relished in my newfound comfort of a shower at the campground. Went boulding as per-usual and felt very strong despite all day I never really accomplished much as I could not generate full power from my left hand. A little bit bummed by the seemingly unbalanced day of feeling realy strong but accomplishing little I retired to camp and jolined everybody to the bar that night as it was a friday and people were looking to get out of the mountains. I got to unleash my dance-bone and lets just say that Africa may not have been ready for a mix of me and euro-trash techno but they certainly jumped aboard quikly. BUt I had to crash pretty early because everything was just feelinga bit off. In the morning I woke and the light through my tent cast everything a red color so indeed my arm showed red but when I vacated the tent my arm was red for reasons independent of the light. There had been an incredible amount of swelling and I knew that something was going down in a bad way. I asked when people were heading into town and with no definate answers being given I convinced Danny a British climber to let me take his car in and grab him food/get me to the doc on the asap. I took his Daihaitsu to unpresedented speeds of the pass and later dirt roads. In other words I made a 30 trip in 14 minutes. Picked up my friend Matt in town and left him the car and booked it to the doctor. While explaining the urgency to the receptionist the doctor walked in and upon a first glance said that I would be heading to the hospital but as he is the only doctor for the hospital as well it was going to be a while until he could get around to helping me(ie-The Tri-Nations Rugby match was about to come on). Being a persistent young fellow that I am I convinced him to at least start the treatment in his office. The treatment turned out to be the doctor cutting my arm open on his desk with no anesthetic(Speachless Pain) and venomous ooze began to pour from my arm.
Okay, so now I though it is time to get to the hospital but when I stepped outside I couold not find Matt or the car so I bouced the Police Station and requested an immediate ride. So there I am now again in a cop truck in AFrica except this time flying through traffic with a hole in my arm. I got admitted and when they saw that underneath all of my dirtyness I was white they asked whether I would be paying or had a health card? I said health acrd and I was taken to a seperate wing of the hospital. I git an IV plugged in with antibodies and there I was upon another adventure. NOw it was just a waiting game to find out if we could reverse the blood poisoning and I just lay there watching my arm to see whether the streaks were indeed continuing up my arm or where now receading. The nurse seemed to be quite sure that all of this trauma was happening because I wore sandals and climbed rocks and have a mono dread and as a result she was insistent that I change cloths but only after being scrubbed by her. She made my homie Matt get me some new threads at the store(thanks Matt) and it was off to a spong bath.Sparing the detalis it was a humorous occasion.
So it began with a morning and beautiful morning at that. Upon waking I noticed a small red dot on my arm. Thinking nothing of it I relished in my newfound comfort of a shower at the campground. Went boulding as per-usual and felt very strong despite all day I never really accomplished much as I could not generate full power from my left hand. A little bit bummed by the seemingly unbalanced day of feeling realy strong but accomplishing little I retired to camp and jolined everybody to the bar that night as it was a friday and people were looking to get out of the mountains. I got to unleash my dance-bone and lets just say that Africa may not have been ready for a mix of me and euro-trash techno but they certainly jumped aboard quikly. BUt I had to crash pretty early because everything was just feelinga bit off. In the morning I woke and the light through my tent cast everything a red color so indeed my arm showed red but when I vacated the tent my arm was red for reasons independent of the light. There had been an incredible amount of swelling and I knew that something was going down in a bad way. I asked when people were heading into town and with no definate answers being given I convinced Danny a British climber to let me take his car in and grab him food/get me to the doc on the asap. I took his Daihaitsu to unpresedented speeds of the pass and later dirt roads. In other words I made a 30 trip in 14 minutes. Picked up my friend Matt in town and left him the car and booked it to the doctor. While explaining the urgency to the receptionist the doctor walked in and upon a first glance said that I would be heading to the hospital but as he is the only doctor for the hospital as well it was going to be a while until he could get around to helping me(ie-The Tri-Nations Rugby match was about to come on). Being a persistent young fellow that I am I convinced him to at least start the treatment in his office. The treatment turned out to be the doctor cutting my arm open on his desk with no anesthetic(Speachless Pain) and venomous ooze began to pour from my arm.
Okay, so now I though it is time to get to the hospital but when I stepped outside I couold not find Matt or the car so I bouced the Police Station and requested an immediate ride. So there I am now again in a cop truck in AFrica except this time flying through traffic with a hole in my arm. I got admitted and when they saw that underneath all of my dirtyness I was white they asked whether I would be paying or had a health card? I said health acrd and I was taken to a seperate wing of the hospital. I git an IV plugged in with antibodies and there I was upon another adventure. NOw it was just a waiting game to find out if we could reverse the blood poisoning and I just lay there watching my arm to see whether the streaks were indeed continuing up my arm or where now receading. The nurse seemed to be quite sure that all of this trauma was happening because I wore sandals and climbed rocks and have a mono dread and as a result she was insistent that I change cloths but only after being scrubbed by her. She made my homie Matt get me some new threads at the store(thanks Matt) and it was off to a spong bath.Sparing the detalis it was a humorous occasion.
Africa Files-Part 13-A Series of unfortunate events
Hello to al my friend in blog land. I have some less than good news to report, it involves borrwed cars, lots of speeding, needles, hospitals, scalpals, overweight nurses and the subsequent spunge bath, hours in the back of trucks and eventually and delicous avocado on toast.
So it began with a morning and beautiful morning at that. Upon waking I noticed a small red dot on my arm. Thinking nothing of it I relished in my newfound comfort of a shower at the campground. Went boulding as per-usual and felt very strong despite all day I never really accomplished much as I could not generate full power from my left hand. A little bit bummed by the seemingly unbalanced day of feeling realy strong but accomplishing little I retired to camp and jolined everybody to the bar that night as it was a friday and people were looking to get out of the mountains. I got to unleash my dance-bone and lets just say that Africa may not have been ready for a mix of me and euro-trash techno but they certainly jumped aboard quikly. BUt I had to crash pretty early because everything was just feelinga bit off. In the morning I woke and the light through my tent cast everything a red color so indeed my arm showed red but when I vacated the tent my arm was red for reasons independent of the light. There had been an incredible amount of swelling and I knew that something was going down in a bad way. I asked when people were heading into town and with no definate answers being given I convinced Danny a British climber to let me take his car in and grab him food/get me to the doc on the asap. I took his Daihaitsu to unpresedented speeds of the pass and later dirt roads. In other words I made a 30 trip in 14 minutes. Picked up my friend Matt in town and left him the car and booked it to the doctor. While explaining the urgency to the receptionist the doctor walked in and upon a first glance said that I would be heading to the hospital but as he is the only doctor for the hospital as well it was going to be a while until he could get around to helping me(ie-The Tri-Nations Rugby match was about to come on). Being a persistent young fellow that I am I convinced him to at least start the treatment in his office. The treatment turned out to be the doctor cutting my arm open on his desk with no anesthetic(Speachless Pain) and venomous ooze began to pour from my arm.
Okay, so now I though it is time to get to the hospital but when I stepped outside I couold not find Matt or the car so I bouced the Police Station and requested an immediate ride. So there I am now again in a cop truck in AFrica except this time flying through traffic with a hole in my arm. I got admitted and when they saw that underneath all of my dirtyness I was white they asked whether I would be paying or had a health card? I said health acrd and I was taken to a seperate wing of the hospital. I git an IV plugged in with antibodies and there I was upon another adventure. NOw it was just a waiting game to find out if we could reverse the blood poisoning and I just lay there watching my arm to see whether the streaks were indeed continuing up my arm or where now receading. The nurse seemed to be quite sure that all of this trauma was happening because I wore sandals and climbed rocks and have a mono dread and as a result she was insistent that I change cloths but only after being scrubbed by her. She made my homie Matt get me some new threads at the store(thanks Matt) and it was off to a spong bath.Sparing the detalis it was a humorous occasion.
So it began with a morning and beautiful morning at that. Upon waking I noticed a small red dot on my arm. Thinking nothing of it I relished in my newfound comfort of a shower at the campground. Went boulding as per-usual and felt very strong despite all day I never really accomplished much as I could not generate full power from my left hand. A little bit bummed by the seemingly unbalanced day of feeling realy strong but accomplishing little I retired to camp and jolined everybody to the bar that night as it was a friday and people were looking to get out of the mountains. I got to unleash my dance-bone and lets just say that Africa may not have been ready for a mix of me and euro-trash techno but they certainly jumped aboard quikly. BUt I had to crash pretty early because everything was just feelinga bit off. In the morning I woke and the light through my tent cast everything a red color so indeed my arm showed red but when I vacated the tent my arm was red for reasons independent of the light. There had been an incredible amount of swelling and I knew that something was going down in a bad way. I asked when people were heading into town and with no definate answers being given I convinced Danny a British climber to let me take his car in and grab him food/get me to the doc on the asap. I took his Daihaitsu to unpresedented speeds of the pass and later dirt roads. In other words I made a 30 trip in 14 minutes. Picked up my friend Matt in town and left him the car and booked it to the doctor. While explaining the urgency to the receptionist the doctor walked in and upon a first glance said that I would be heading to the hospital but as he is the only doctor for the hospital as well it was going to be a while until he could get around to helping me(ie-The Tri-Nations Rugby match was about to come on). Being a persistent young fellow that I am I convinced him to at least start the treatment in his office. The treatment turned out to be the doctor cutting my arm open on his desk with no anesthetic(Speachless Pain) and venomous ooze began to pour from my arm.
Okay, so now I though it is time to get to the hospital but when I stepped outside I couold not find Matt or the car so I bouced the Police Station and requested an immediate ride. So there I am now again in a cop truck in AFrica except this time flying through traffic with a hole in my arm. I got admitted and when they saw that underneath all of my dirtyness I was white they asked whether I would be paying or had a health card? I said health acrd and I was taken to a seperate wing of the hospital. I git an IV plugged in with antibodies and there I was upon another adventure. NOw it was just a waiting game to find out if we could reverse the blood poisoning and I just lay there watching my arm to see whether the streaks were indeed continuing up my arm or where now receading. The nurse seemed to be quite sure that all of this trauma was happening because I wore sandals and climbed rocks and have a mono dread and as a result she was insistent that I change cloths but only after being scrubbed by her. She made my homie Matt get me some new threads at the store(thanks Matt) and it was off to a spong bath.Sparing the detalis it was a humorous occasion.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Africa Files- Part 11-The Fresh and the New New
Africa, how great and new she can feel when you just move out of an abandoned old crack house and back into your tent in the company of great new homies. I have been changing it all up, I have been doing manual labor(ie-building shit yo) and showering(go-figure). But even more so I feel way psyched to go rock climbing in a new spot on new problems and just feel anew. It was very hot the other day(80F) but I was still able to put good effort in and make quick work of 'Born into Struggle V9' and 'Poison Dwarf V8'. Then I went sport climbing to really mix things up and really almost flashed 5.12? and ended up doing it second go and it felt real nice to do things completely different. Spice, spice the spice of life. Love to all and enjoy the pictures.
AR
AR
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Africa Files-Part 10-My Ho is gone and the Move
Hello everybody out there in blog-land. A few major things have changed since we last spoke. First of all Zaych left, but not without making his project go down in quike form, 'NBA Jamz V8'. It was such a rad adventure and absolutley crucial to have a master of travel to accompany me for this voyage of Africa proportions. Lets all wish Zaych the luck on his ways to becoming a doctor of astro physics, see you soon doc.
Last night I relocated to De Pakhuys, which is essentially a wonderland of climbing camps. It already has been a blast with big communal dinners and a bunch of great people from all over the world expollsions and all. Much more to come and many pictures as I am able to use the internet here. Alsi I did 'Minkki V8' in super quike form and is just another unbelievable rad line.
AR
Last night I relocated to De Pakhuys, which is essentially a wonderland of climbing camps. It already has been a blast with big communal dinners and a bunch of great people from all over the world expollsions and all. Much more to come and many pictures as I am able to use the internet here. Alsi I did 'Minkki V8' in super quike form and is just another unbelievable rad line.
AR
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