The Goin' ons

The last couple of days I have been up to some pretty diverse and really fun stuff. The weather has been pretty sporadic here in Boulder so regularity with just about anything has been lost. I have done some sports climbing on the Primo Wall of Clear Creek Canyon and knocking off up to 5.12+ without getting to pumped. I went and climbed the Bastille in Eldo with my friend Matty that I am also living with and even led some gear pitches on that which was a total blast. I went to CATS(Colorado Athletic Training School) which is an awesome facility including really fun gymnastic equipment and had a great session in which I truly became psyched again. So much so that I am going back tonight. I am prepping the truck and I will be Rifle bound very soon. 

AR

Bishop Files

A new V10 that Chris put up on the Checkerboard Boulder. Cool moves but quite sharp.
My view from my back porch. I love the eastern Sierra mountains
Carlo on the amazing and tall 'This Side of Paradise V10'
Again 'This Side of Paradise V10'
Alex making the big move on her ascent of 'A Maze of Death V12'

Yosemite Files

Kevin tryin' the Classic 'Yabo Roof V11/12'
Chillin' in the Caf', the all to standard post climbing activity in the ditch. Of course staying until you get booted, which if you play it right can be midnight.

The very cool and quite unique feature of 

'Pine Box V11/12?'
The perfect and well traveled granite of 

'Cocaine Corner V5' in Camp 4.

Operation Saturation

I have been up to alot of work and climbing as much as possible mostly in Boulder, CO. I have achieved some monetary goals and now own a great laptop and other quality of life improvements. It is about time for me to head out and live were the rocks are and the most recent manifestation of that will be Rifle, CO where I will try my hand at some Sports Climbing. Now that I have a station to process my photos and so on my posts will be much more saturated with media and adventures, hope you enjoy as much as I.
AR

Back from Retirement?

Yesterday I actually went rock climbing again with old Friend Hayden Miller and Justin Jaeger in the Newlin Creek. The weather was quite bad and I would consider our conditions to humid as we were actually inside the clouds. But it was fairly quite and and nice excursion. As I spent a lot of time in Newlin last year it was quite the trip down memory lane and with old friends as well. I climbed a couple boulder within the V7 range and that felt noce to move over stone again.
Afterwords we posted up in Colorado Springs and the stars aligned that there was some electronic musique being played by friends that I had not seen in a while. Yesterday was full day of movement starting with an alpine start for Newlin and finally ending at 4 A.M. A Full experience.
I am now funded by my laboring exploits enough to buy a computational device know as a laptop and my posts will become much more frequent and highly saturated with media. A good one to you all.
AR

The 'End of the World' may be comming

I am tellin all of you to watch out for the endo of dayz because I have officially jammed my hands, feet, fingers and body into Indian Creek sandstone. This is not a joke I even have some pictures to proove it.
I have been in quite an interesting stage of life recently and have been tryin' to ground myself in order to process a few things. I have been laboring in Boulder during the days and training inside at night but mostly I have been thinking and weighing all that life has shown me at this stage.
Perhaps our greatest refuge is spontinaity, this being said a dear friend of my offered a ride for a 'Creek' trip. So I thought to myself what an oppertunity for something new and no place offers a grounds for thinking like the desert...so here I am. I am distracted with the obsession with learning and afforded a great deal of though at night.
AR

Hopefully Life is like a Ninetendo...to fix all you need to do is blow on it

The last month has been a particularly rough one. Several things have been contributing factors and going into them would be quite the unpleasent ordeal but no problem has ever existed without and ensuing solution. The quest is now to find that special way to blow on your Ninetendo that will keep it from freezing up.
Since May in '08 I have been on the road in less than comfortable livin' situations and to my odd surprise this takes a great deal out of you and the time has come for some regenration. The Front Range seems to be the host for this time and I will post when there is developments in my climbing related life.
AR

Outdoor Retailer and the American Contingency

I am now in the Front Range of CO after hitching a ride up to CO from TX. I met up with some friends and carpooled out to SLC for the winter installment of the biannual Outdoor Retailer(Trade Show). This was my first experience at the trade show and I found my experience to be all over the board. It was very exciting at times, coma inducing at times but a very worthwhile and engaging experience with the world that I find myself in.
The highlights for me were truly the people and vision that some companies were rigidly pursuing despite the current economic state(aka-recession). The idea that a company can make an American product and continue to do so and that a constituency will value this was very good to see despite the obvious extra cost involved. This is the model that I created with A-Balm and to see that some people still emphasize quality and domestic commerce was inspiring. Especially in times of economic turmoil when every dollar counts it allows us to realize that 'WE' the consumer hold the power and with every dollar spent we vote on the future we want in our consumer and political reality.
Darn Tough really blew me away. Both of these companies make a product that is superior in quality to anything that I have ever seen all while keeping every facet of their production with in the united states.
Darn Tough is a sock company out of Vermont. Thats right they have stuck to just socks and it shows because I had never really considered this to be a necessary component to managing an adventurous and traveling based lifestyle but since I put my first pair on I am a believer and supporter. Despite the competition Darn Tough has maintained it entire operation including production line in the United States, their company is also full of personality and excitement as you can only find or deal with someone that has genuine psyche for their product the ethic that goes into it.
FiveTen has also acted with great environmental and performance emphasis with their Stealth Paint which is a recycled rubber program that that one can now apply to their shoes in a custom manner for improved toe hooking and other trixy foot work. The other exciting part of this program is that FiveTen has chosen not to patent this method in an effort to excite the rest of the climbing footwear industry to utilize there rubber waste for something productive.
Organic Boulder Mats has also continued to impress me with the commitment to quality and the ethic that has become inherent in their product name and line. I was fortunate enough to stop by the HQ in Laramie, WY, which is actually just a one car garage. Everything that comes out of this operation is all coming from this garage in the prairie. This is how the quality can remain so high on all items released. Don't be suckered in by the imitators who now slap bright colors on their pads, Organic is the original and the only company committed to unique individual items and soy foam which helps us escape yet another petroleum based product.
A-Balm also had a good showing at the OR in that we gained a few more accounts and received a great deal of praise, compliments, and suggestions from friends and strangers alike. Thank you all for the support with A-Balm and I hope that no one is a stranger as we appreciate all feedback and business. A-Balm has remained staunchly domestic in its production and demands that quality remain just as rigid.
Perhaps the best part of the entire experience was seeing great friends in the tribe from all over and even making some new ones. Thanks to good friend Justin Wood for all his hospitality and positivity. Ciau.AnderRockstad

Smiles and Boulder Problems-Past, Present, and Future

So it has been quite some time, but not owning a computer will have that effect on ones blog. Since we last spoke I finished a great couple weeks in Bishop where I was able to experience such hospitality and if-ie conditions. But despite snow and ice dispersing itself amongst the beautiful boulders I was able to climb some amazing problems. 'Toxic Avenger V10' which at the time of send was actually half in ice which I think makes this the hardest mixed climb ever!!!, also in the table lands was the amazing 'Disco Diva V8' which felt plenty tough for me. Then to the ButterMilks to stake my claim on the ever evolving Cave Boulder. The holds involved in the Forgotten problem had recent significant breakage and where ripe for a new sequence, quasi FA and just some new territory in an old play ground. After pumping off the end a few time I was able to revive the radical 'Little Forgotten V10'. The topout was the first n the cave boulder in a few days because of the ice and snow, but due to raging motivation by my spotter(Friend; Walker) and myself i pulled myself over the snow and ice with my first hand jam ever!! What a boulder!!
Then it was ringing in the new year with my Austrian friends and to pick-up a climber in LA to start the 2009 with a drive on out the incredible Hueco Tanks of TX. After some serious driving time and a cargo drop in New Mexico we arrived in Hueco, actually the Rock Ranch to welcome of Bros from the past and current. In the morning it was hot but I was in my original geo-playground so psyche was brimming to say the least. I was able to fire off the 'Fern Roof V10?' with the original burl beta(Read: no kneebar) and this is a favorite climb of mine now. But Hueco was so unfamiliar in how physical it is from Yosemite and Bishop that I was forced into a rest day almost instantly after arriving. 'Smooth Move V8'(in my Daesents), 'Roughage V7R'(Best in Hueco?), 'Stanage on Holiday V8', 'No Wonder V7', 'Hector in a Blender V7', 'Dry Dock V7' and 'Something Different V8' are among my new favorites in Hueco. Wow, I feel like a total spray lord...maybe that fitting because iI have been in Hueco, lol.
Yesterday, I climbed a radical and obvious physical line in the Martini cave called 'Martini Hotbox V9' and then had to boogy to catcha ride to the front range which was delayed but eventual delivered me to Colorado Springs a 4A.M. And now I sit in friend Hayden's room which ironically I used to live in and will session at Eleven Mile today. More to come. Lots of Love.
AR

Playing Zen Flutes on the Moon in Bish-Town

So I have now rolled back into Bishop with good friends Nic & Dom from the Inland Empire. We rolled up in the Five Ten van and upon arriving checked in with friends Jon and Mike to stay in town and enjoy the pleasure of space-heaters.
The next day you took a little whirl up my favorite warm-up ever, 'The Dome 5.8?'. Then I put my first efforts on 'The Mandala V12'. I found the moves to be much more managable than I had expected and see this as a reality. Truely an amazing boulder although incredible sharp. Then I went with some friend to the cave boulder and quikly dispatched the 'Moon Raker V9'in a couple goes. I found that problem to be super radical with amazing movement.
I heard dear some dear friends of mine South Africa were in the 'Milks as well and then set out looking for them. Then I met up Alana and Scott which of course was a total pleasure and trip all at once.
The next day Nic, Dom and myself headed back to the 'Milks. After a Warm-up solo on the dome I headed over to Dales Camp and was able to quikly finish an absolute incredible boulder 'Zen Flute V10' that finishes with an all points off dyno. So so sooooo good.
Some other nice boulders that I have climbed in the last couple of days are 'Disco Diva V8'& 'Get Carter V8' and in the icy super cold conditions of today I ripped of the last move of 'Toxic Avenger V10' with blood spraying from my right hand. It is very cold and staying psyched is easy but keeping the body in good shape is something else all together. So there is the whirlwind of recent activity and with Hueco on the horizon life is very cold but oh so good!!
AR

Bishop, avoiding the Apocalyptic storm & The Inland Empire

If you are anywhere amongst the west coast of the united states you are aware that weather has been an issue if you like climbing rocks. Huge weather systems seem to be coming in from the Pacific. Bishop was no exception.
Prior to the storm we had a few small windows of climbable weather. I was able to make quick work of some great problems like 'Soul Slinger V9', 'Freeze Short V9' in two tries, and the 'Croft Problem V8'. I also tried an amazing problem, 'Zen Flute V10', that was originally put up by Sharma. This climb came so so close a to a one day ascent but because it is so amazing and classic I am just as psyched to head back.
I headed down to the Inland Empire with good friend Dominique in an effort to change the scene as the storm of impending doom was sitting on our doorstep, or tail-gate as it would be for me. I have been able to catch up with amazing people and great friends from the road. I have seen and will continue to check out the gym climbing scene as the weather seems to be unrelenting. I have been able to gain some accounts for A-Balm and stop by to meet the gang at Five Ten in Redlands.
It seems like true happiness in climbing on the road is more about the ability to adapt than to follow plans and this has been just another great chapter. Hope everyone has been able to adapt to the weather and stay psyched.
AR
PS-I have added a few images. The First is me sending "Pine Box V11/12". The Second is myself on 'Thriller V10'. The third is me sending an amazing V8 in Ibex that I was reminded of recently.

Bishop & the sheddin'

So I have made it to Bishop but much more has happened as the title implies. I am still recoverying from some 'knock you on yo ass' bug that I picked up in the valley so hopefully I can put that on my shedded list soon. Turns out being sick messes with ones climbing...hmmm woulda guessed. Despite the heat that has been hitting Bishop I have managed a couple nice boulders. 'Brian's Project V9','Rave V7' and some rad patina V7. All went very quikley, within a few goes for all.
Before I left I shaved my head on very long hair in an attempt to draw a close to the past and begin this new leg as just that, new. I now reside in the bed of GMC truck and am hopefully awaiting some healthier times and cooler temps. Love to all. Ciau
AR

Pine Box

Yesterday I made an ascent of an amazing steep and tall granite arete called 'Pine Box V11/12'. It had exfoliated a little bit as it is a new problem found and climbed by my friend Justin Alarcon. The lips on two of the holds had significantly decreased which made the climb much harder and forced different beta than the original condition dictated. The boulder also goes under the full value category as the top out is committing and sequence dependent. The grade is a bit of a question mark but I had an extremely fun time climbing on it and it is double digit-something. I will add some images of the ascent soon and hope you are all out there enjoying cool conditions.

AR

On the Migration Station

Lack of a computer has done a bit to stifle the update train but lets get it back on track. A bout of really nasty weather pretty much California as a whole and unlike the dry rockies and desert environments Yosemite Valley holds onto its moisture like a pit-bulls lock-jaw. So that meant training on a wet 45woody in the back yard. After sufficiently loosing my mind with not climbing I acquires a radical camera and proceeded to take shots of everything under the sun, which ended up being little because we were socked in with gloomy clouds for quite some time. And just when the world seemed to be getting smaller by the minute without any rock-scaling in the over a week my phone decided to snap in half, which of course exasperated the walls that were actually closing in!!

But alas the clouds broke long enough to allow some modicum of climbing conditions and I knew it was time to get back to the Valley, wet or not. I permanently left my dwellings in Fresno and waved goodbye to all that chapter held and didn't hold alike. A one way trip to the Valley, it was not planned and logistically its been a bit of an epic but the absolute right move to make.

Upon my drop off I met up with the Colorado Crew and and the vibe was on. So Psyched to be back into it. As a psyched climber it seems that the overlap with drug addicts is closer than some might like to acknowledge. Life was good and the vibes were excellent and the session productive. I tried 'Yabo Roof V11/12' and surprised myself and then came very close to the 'Yabo Face V11' in just a couple of goes and Chris Shulte snapped up the second ascent, good work. I am super psyched on getting back to this boulder and it stellar problems.

The next day reunion with Pete led to some classic climbing in cap four which was a blast including the historical rocks such as 'Cocaine Corner V5', 'Blue Suede Shoes V4', 'Initial Friction V1' ect, ect.

Then came the rain. This would be extremely news worthy except my lack of tent and appropriate sleeping bag prompted quite the search for overhanging(read; dry) ground to sleep. And for those that know about Yosemite granite this can be few and far between. After some very cold sleepless nights and equally rough rest days the conditions allowed climbing again. I climbed an amazing problem called, 'Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass V9' on the infamous Columbia Boulder. I sent very quickly which set good spirits for me and the fun just continued. 

I think Bishop is next...

Note: The power of positivity and friendship in climbing has become more obvious than ever and it is the company we hold that makes the difference between a feeling of work and an explosion of excellence. Thanks to all the Bro's.

AR

Yosemite and the Fresno New New

Since we last spoke(by the way the most contrived method of opening a blog post) lots has happened.  I have sorta moved into the  starkly different Fresno, CA. Why, you might ask, this is certainly a great switch from your previous home, oh wait I did not have a home before this!! But in all seriousness my good friend Jacob lives in Fresno and as an active and staple developer of the Yosemite bouldering scene it seemed only appropriate that I take him up on his offer to crash and establish boulder problem in the famed 'Valley'. I have been down in this area for a week now and have already spent 4 days in the Valley, including today until a near tragic ankle sprain took my dear friend Catrina out of the game and sent us back to Fresno in hopes of speeding here rehab.

Although I feel like I am in total school learning the climbing style and technique required on not so steep granite I have managed to climb some stellar lines. 'The King V8', 'Silly Roof V7', 'Chocolate Bunny V6', 'The Diamond Left V6', 'Kudra V6' and flashing a nice V6(unnamed) in Camp 4 have been some highlights. It is taking alot but I am building that ever so important kinesthetic rolodex.

I arrived in Fresno via public train instead of gassing up a personal vehicle and since have been learning about electronics and their installation as part of my new 'tag along with Jacob' Job. Many hours have been spent carpooling back and forth to Yosemite Valley and these roads have now taken on quite the identity. They are no longer twisty winds up into the great sierras but an amalgam of provocative conversation leading to the ever expanding personal insight we all work so hard to gain. That is a whirlwind I know...but for now I wish all of you well and perhaps you will see me scouring the woods looking for boulders and wondering the streets lookin' for conversation. Just remember, "Not all who wonder are lost"

ARockstad

Hardly, Strictly...Love?Past?

Since we last spoke the past has come into the periphery of life in the most interesting of ways. On Friday the weather seemed grim for rock-scaling in Northern California so I decided to bounce up to San Fransisco with friend Pete Finn. The method travel was hitch-hiking at it purest, from the door of my house to Golden Gate Park it was all thumbs up. Five rides and less than two hours(Must be because I shaved and they could see my beautiful face) we were watching amazing free music in GGP courtesy of 'Hardly, Strictly, Bluegrass'. The objective for the day was to see Robert Plant play with Alison Krauss and this was achieved in geat style in help by many a great person along the way. I was also fortunate enough to has a bit of a listen to Elvis Costello, Micky Hart, topped of Iron & Wine.
There was time spent with old friends, thinking about old friends, strolls along Haight(Where Caroline Hooked it up!!!Nepotism-What What) of course the beats of LoveFest. All of which brought the past to the present. Amazing.
I usually keep the blog to climbing but as a break this is what I have been up to besides training. And to right and wrongs here are some nostalgia climbing shots at college hangouts like the Spray Boulder and Hueco Tanks, TX. Thanks for all the support.
Martini Roof, Hueco Tanks, TX, Photo:Craig Copeland
V7+ in the Spray Cave, ElevenMile, CO, Photos:Hayden Miller

Yosemite Facelift 2008

Still feelin' a little juiced from the long trip to Africa I was thinking more aout some local boulder reconnaissance but when I heard the Yosemite Facelift(note-an annual climber powered park wide clean-up) was going on starting on Wed and roling on through 'til Sunday I thought to myself why not? It was kind of a big trip from up here in wine country NorCal and called for several bus trips and an eventual meet up with a Craigs List ride from the bay area. After hours of interesting conversations with the local transportations proprietors I arrived in the majestic land known by many as 'The Valley'.
It was extremely hot(red-85degrees and up) everyday and I spent much of my time picking up trash and helping to organize the event which brought an amazing 50,000lbs of trash in from all over the park. I was psyched to be experiencing such an amazing part of climbing history from every angle and know I will spending a lot of time hear in the future.
I was psyched to climb and at least experience what all the talk was of Yosemite bouldering. I saw only a few of the areas, Camp 4, LeConte(KING AIR!!!), and the Cathedrals. As it was extremely hot I climbed at night when all were asleep and the event needed no more help for the day. The problems in Camp 4 move amazingly. Despite the heat I climbed 'Torque Spanner V8' and 'Ament Arete V6' very quikly after discovering there many tricks. I am psyched on a return to The Valley come some better temps and can now see the draw that pulls some people in and often never lets them go.

A family variety in NorCal

Yours truly post Africa
A beautiful beach session
The rightmost line, a classic
Me sending an amazing V6, name unknown
Today I headed out with my mom to hunt down some blocks here in Northern California. We were to meet up with friend and psyched climber Richie to get a little tour but there was a communication break down and it looked bleak for a minute. But not to worry, Richie hooked me up ith another psyched local, Ryan. Ryan has put a bunch of great work into developing these great boulders on the coast and beyond. Needless to say it is super rad to keep connecting with all these great psyched people and insta friends.
First stop was the Fort Ross Boulder. I was quite taken by climbing on the beach and as my friend Hayden can testify it is 'very powerful'. This boulder stands as a crown the joins the land with the Pacific Ocean. The tide was rising the whole day and was for sure giving the boulder some spray. The rock-type was a sandstone conglomerate and had very good friction. I was able to climb a proud and stout V6 but more importantly it felt good to move the body on stone again.
Next stop was to get a preview of some amazing blue schist crimping just inland. I am very psyched on spending time there in the near future and I also ended the day flashing a very nice and striking prow, 'Walk The Plank V6'. It was a god excursion. Friends were made, beaches were frolicked, crimps were had and boulders were climbed. Psyched.

Sweet Boulder, CA

A traversy line that Richie put up called "Astro Zombie V8'
The crimpy type of climbing suplied by schist

Today I went out to break my mold of comas, jetlag, and internet sleuthing. I am trying to get recovered from such a long session of rugged, cheap, and amenity devoid lifestyle. But Today I went to go and check out some boulder that a rad friend, Richie, had discovered. The rock type was a metamorphosed schist which made for some extremely crimpy and sharp climbing. I temps were hot and I cut my pads up pretty god but it was good to go on a mini-excursion in comparison and I at least got move my body over some stone. What I am really psyched for is tommarrow in which Richie will give a tour of the real biz. Stay tuned and here are some pics.

Africa Files 19- Thank You

The trip is now over and upon just preliminary reflection it was the raddest trip!!!!Super good in so many ways. I have so many thankyouzzzzz to be dropping to so many people that made my trip a success either through contact or just sharing moments together. I received amazing support from my dear friend Thys, whom owns and operates the Depakhuys Farm. For those looking for logistics upon Rocklands bouldering and organizing a trip you should feel free to leave a comment on my blog and I will get back to you and also give a good look at http://www.Depakhuys.com/ for pictures and a way to contact Thys. Depakhuys has an amazing campground with hit water and showers for the equivalent of US$5 a night with a lesser rate for longer stays, definatley the best deal in the Cederberg. There re also chalets for the indoors inclined sleepers that are quite nice. And most importantly there are some the most amazing boulders and bouldering sectors on the Depakhuys Farm including the famous Fields of Joy and Plateau Sectors. It is truely an amazing farm and one that I will call home again.
I would just like to say thank you to all of you that helped make this trip happen including you blog readers!!It was an amazing trip and your hosbitality and openess of the greatest bouldering areana I have ever seen is so appreciated...thank you.