So it has been quite some time, but not owning a computer will have that effect on ones blog. Since we last spoke I finished a great couple weeks in Bishop where I was able to experience such hospitality and if-ie conditions. But despite snow and ice dispersing itself amongst the beautiful boulders I was able to climb some amazing problems. 'Toxic Avenger V10' which at the time of send was actually half in ice which I think makes this the hardest mixed climb ever!!!, also in the table lands was the amazing 'Disco Diva V8' which felt plenty tough for me. Then to the ButterMilks to stake my claim on the ever evolving Cave Boulder. The holds involved in the Forgotten problem had recent significant breakage and where ripe for a new sequence, quasi FA and just some new territory in an old play ground. After pumping off the end a few time I was able to revive the radical 'Little Forgotten V10'. The topout was the first n the cave boulder in a few days because of the ice and snow, but due to raging motivation by my spotter(Friend; Walker) and myself i pulled myself over the snow and ice with my first hand jam ever!! What a boulder!!
Then it was ringing in the new year with my Austrian friends and to pick-up a climber in LA to start the 2009 with a drive on out the incredible Hueco Tanks of TX. After some serious driving time and a cargo drop in New Mexico we arrived in Hueco, actually the Rock Ranch to welcome of Bros from the past and current. In the morning it was hot but I was in my original geo-playground so psyche was brimming to say the least. I was able to fire off the 'Fern Roof V10?' with the original burl beta(Read: no kneebar) and this is a favorite climb of mine now. But Hueco was so unfamiliar in how physical it is from Yosemite and Bishop that I was forced into a rest day almost instantly after arriving. 'Smooth Move V8'(in my Daesents), 'Roughage V7R'(Best in Hueco?), 'Stanage on Holiday V8', 'No Wonder V7', 'Hector in a Blender V7', 'Dry Dock V7' and 'Something Different V8' are among my new favorites in Hueco. Wow, I feel like a total spray lord...maybe that fitting because iI have been in Hueco, lol.
Yesterday, I climbed a radical and obvious physical line in the Martini cave called 'Martini Hotbox V9' and then had to boogy to catcha ride to the front range which was delayed but eventual delivered me to Colorado Springs a 4A.M. And now I sit in friend Hayden's room which ironically I used to live in and will session at Eleven Mile today. More to come. Lots of Love.
AR
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