Thursday, July 31, 2008

Africa Files-Part 9-The Life(an update)

Just an update on the goings ons of my trip. All is well and Zaych and myself are feeling healthy and psyched. I did an amazing line yesterday called 'Black Spider V9' which felt very hard for because of its length and word has it that it harder 5.13, who knows? But it was a great line and a great time. The weather has been really ADD from hour to hour and day to day so our psyched nature is really working well. To all you who wants some media, I have been harvesting it. But idle threats will do you no good. You must use a carrot with this horsie. Like I said just a little update but to end I will add some facts of life as I have found them.

Facts;-Rock-Scaling seams to just not lose its fun for me and I am perpetually psyched, even a surprise for me sometime.
-I feel better about the world knowing Jaeger is out there finding new boulders and using his gnar beam on all geology/friends/and authorities alike
-The Rocklands are truly staggering and yes my knees have buckled
-PB&Jays are a 10 out of 10

Psyched and with love-Ander

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Africa Files-Part 8-The Best Boulder Problem Ever?

Alright, here is the deal, I think some are prompt to exaggerate when it comes to preaching about how classic a boulder really is. And perhaps I am now joining those ranks. But I found the 'Cedar Spine SDS V9' to be what I would consider truly 5 Stars. I had only a few minutes with this beast two weeks ago and was only able to try the stand start. This problem takes many pads and since I seam to be lacking in the quantity but not the quality(Thank you Josh-ORGANIC_WHAT WHAT) I was at the whim of the crowd. So I did this great problem in stand start form in about three goes but knew the full beauty was yet to come. Yesterday I found people at this problem and got a few minutes to suss beta for the SDS. I gave her a link and fell at the last move(big air-fun/scary), then everybody decided they were ready to move on. Bummer!! It seemed as though yet again I had caught a tail end of a session and chalked it up to a typical saying, "Sometimes that's the way the cookie crumbles". Zaych and I tried a few more problem and at the end of the day I gave some nice Italians some beta and informed them that they perhaps had left a chalk bag over by that great problem. As luck/fate would have it one of the Italians wanted to see the spine and as the sun was setting I was able to assemble the minimum pad quota. So I gate it a go to warm up and fell at the last and very high move again. Then the Italians were talking about leaving as it was actually getting quite dark. The Italian told me we both had more go. He had a nice go from the stand and this really left me with some business. At the mercy of the pad situation yet again I just decided to enjoy this great and try really really hard as it was actually dark at this point(no head-lamp). I floated through the bottom and just took a second to breath and enjoy the climbing at about the half way point. Finally the last move came and I just decided to lock-off and put a little hop to my step for the final latch and the super man air that was to come. An ascent that really meant something for me and great realization. A truly beautiful climb and a beautiful moment!! So Pysched.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Some thoughts from a great man

Ben Rubin has sent us(Zaych & myself) some great vibes thius whole trip and helped us with some stateside communication which we appreciated a bunch. His latest installment has been profound, check it out.

"I'm glad to hear that all is going well. Keep on sending plenty of
gnar. I was once told by and elderly gentleman that gnar does not
necessarily come in the form climbing. Rather, he said, that gnar
points come from doing simple acts in an extreme manner. So, going to
the store...on roller skates would equate to about +3 gnar. Rock
climbing 5.10+ would be about +9 gnar points. I mean it just depends.
Like today, I'm going to work but I as well will be "sending the
gnar" by throwing trays to the customers (+1 gnar).

Gnar is the SI unit of extremeness and awesomeness. 1 Gnar (gR) is
measured as the Mass of the doer divided by the mass of the recipient
object plus 3 kilajoules. This is then taken to the power of 7
divided by the gravitational field of the mass of the object. The
equation looks someting like:

((M1/M2) + 3kJ)^(7/Grav Field M2)

I think if you use this equation, you'll find that most everyday
activites have some sort of gnar level. However, most gnar
calculators these days round too much such that most everyday
activities do not read on the gnarometer.

I guess Time magazine or some publication had a small article about
the gnar-liest man out there. Apparently, Elvis has taken the cake
for the past 20 years. It seems that all the publicity he still gets
and all the impersonators contribute greatly to his gnar factor

Who woulda thunk?

Zaych and myself have been activating our much needed rest bones. -Ander

Friday, July 18, 2008

Africa Files-Part 7- The Media

Africa Files- Part 6-The Actual Climbing

Zack and I have really started to get into good groove and the great weather has allowed for the climbing on all the days we feel it. I have been feelin' great and climbing at least a V8 or harder everyday. Zaych has been climbing his best and now sent a 'A Question of Balance V8', which I sent as well and we both decided that this may be the greatest problem yet. After a rest day we went to the famous Roadside boulders and had on of the best and most tiring days ever. I started by onsighting a classic highball 'Creaking Hights V5' and then quickly dispatched with 'A Question of Balance V8' and 'Sunset Arete V9' with were both absolutely excellent and a real dream come true. We took our mandatory PB&J break and ran around to see all of the beautiful boulders. I decided to try one more problem and warmed back up. Within a few minutes I did another great V8 which just capped off a beautiful day.
The next day(yesturday) Zaych and myself got picked up by the great and welcoming Amy & Jon and went back to the Roadside for the morning. Feelin' really tired and low on skin the V6's took a couple of goes. I eventually got warm and started to work on a great dynamic problem 'A Pinch of Herbs V10ish'. I got really really close for the quick ascent but will just have to enjoy this line another day. Psyched. We then walked up to the Roadcrew boulders where Amy and Jon had some people to meet. Feelin' super low on skin and energy I had to chill for a few minutes but then could not help but get psyched on this line of a problem called 'Rooi Klavier V9'. It took some real deep efforts and a few breaks but I was able to send it and in real good form. I talked to Andy Mann over at 'Amandala V15' and it sounds like him and his crew have been having a blast. Got to experience Paul Robinson sending this amazing line in good one day style, amazing. Daniel Woods seemed really close and I am sure will get it as well.
I have a better internet connection and will try to post some media. But having the time of my life and I send my best to all you greats out there. SO SO PSYCHED...

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Africa Files Part 5-The Rain/Climbing

There could not be a better match of people than Zaych and myself as the time spent in that small room amongst the humidity was a blast in its own not climbing way. Finally I snapped and with some beta from a local I found a traverse that does not top out that stays dry. The rock was dry but I was not and I brough and extra set of clothes. After changing I warmed-up by trying to flash the trav and after three goes I dispatched the first bould problem of the trip, 'The Egg Files V8'. Game on!!
Over the last couple of days Zaych and I have beem climbing and sending with great speed. More and more to come. For a full list of sends before the next entry check out my link. Lots of Love to these great universe & SOPSYCHED!!

Africa Files Part 4-The Rain

As fate would reveal we showed up in the Rocklands at the wettest rainy spell in which the flooding was unbelievable. A long story turned short we arranged with the farmer whom owns this property to inhabit/clean up his crack house that was in total diseray. Zaych and myself quikly made it quite the home. Pictures are included. We sat out some 5plus days of unbelievable torture rain.

Africa Files Part 3-Getting to the Rocklands

One step closer and now in Capetown Zaych and myself investigated bus routes to Clanwilliam because we were detered from hitch-hicking(weather and safety). We got on a bus and within six hours were dropped off in the middle of the night along route 7, miles from Clanwilliam still. WE put on some thinking caps found a payphone and called the police, yes the police and they agreed to pick us up and bring us to Clanwilliam. Yet one step closer to rock. Once in CW we convinced the police to drive us into the mountains and drop us off at the abandoned campground but not before making several rounds through the town in an effort to control the drunken saturday night herds. We eventualy got dropped off at the campground in the pouring rain.

Africa Files Part 2 Cape Town

Once I arrived in Capetown I got the exciting oppertunity to wait 12hrs for Zack. All the while hoping that any of the ride prospects could work out. It turns out none of them did and I finally got some much needed sleep on my old friend the crash pad. Then the man himself (Zaych Money) came and it was full swing for the good vibes and the laughs that hurt your face. We stormed up some ideas as to how we were going to get to the rocklands. We played a bunch of shirtless hachy sack, the janitors thought it was funny to say the least. Long story short we arranged for a friend of a friends ex-boyfriend's mother to save us from the lights and persistent music of the airport.

African Files Part 1

Alright here is the deal, Africa is blowing my mind and we(Zack Rubin) have been pushing our adventure to the fullest. I am going to break it dfown the best I can. The first step was the adventure of the airports. I spent 70plus hours in airports. Canada and England were the main stops. Meet some great people along the way. Pulled change out of theseets in London's airport to us some internet and tryto establish who if any one was to indeed retrieve Zack and myself from the airport in Capetown. I sat next to great artist on my final leg to Africa and just talked through my concepts and experiences. I watch 10 movies in total and have seen enough romantic comedies at this point to make any relationship work.