Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Africa Files-Part 8-The Best Boulder Problem Ever?

Alright, here is the deal, I think some are prompt to exaggerate when it comes to preaching about how classic a boulder really is. And perhaps I am now joining those ranks. But I found the 'Cedar Spine SDS V9' to be what I would consider truly 5 Stars. I had only a few minutes with this beast two weeks ago and was only able to try the stand start. This problem takes many pads and since I seam to be lacking in the quantity but not the quality(Thank you Josh-ORGANIC_WHAT WHAT) I was at the whim of the crowd. So I did this great problem in stand start form in about three goes but knew the full beauty was yet to come. Yesterday I found people at this problem and got a few minutes to suss beta for the SDS. I gave her a link and fell at the last move(big air-fun/scary), then everybody decided they were ready to move on. Bummer!! It seemed as though yet again I had caught a tail end of a session and chalked it up to a typical saying, "Sometimes that's the way the cookie crumbles". Zaych and I tried a few more problem and at the end of the day I gave some nice Italians some beta and informed them that they perhaps had left a chalk bag over by that great problem. As luck/fate would have it one of the Italians wanted to see the spine and as the sun was setting I was able to assemble the minimum pad quota. So I gate it a go to warm up and fell at the last and very high move again. Then the Italians were talking about leaving as it was actually getting quite dark. The Italian told me we both had more go. He had a nice go from the stand and this really left me with some business. At the mercy of the pad situation yet again I just decided to enjoy this great and try really really hard as it was actually dark at this point(no head-lamp). I floated through the bottom and just took a second to breath and enjoy the climbing at about the half way point. Finally the last move came and I just decided to lock-off and put a little hop to my step for the final latch and the super man air that was to come. An ascent that really meant something for me and great realization. A truly beautiful climb and a beautiful moment!! So Pysched.

1 comment:

sock hands said...

SMELLS LIKE HIPPY IN HERE! media could cure this and get back to righteous badassness.

media! give it up!