Playing Zen Flutes on the Moon in Bish-Town

So I have now rolled back into Bishop with good friends Nic & Dom from the Inland Empire. We rolled up in the Five Ten van and upon arriving checked in with friends Jon and Mike to stay in town and enjoy the pleasure of space-heaters.
The next day you took a little whirl up my favorite warm-up ever, 'The Dome 5.8?'. Then I put my first efforts on 'The Mandala V12'. I found the moves to be much more managable than I had expected and see this as a reality. Truely an amazing boulder although incredible sharp. Then I went with some friend to the cave boulder and quikly dispatched the 'Moon Raker V9'in a couple goes. I found that problem to be super radical with amazing movement.
I heard dear some dear friends of mine South Africa were in the 'Milks as well and then set out looking for them. Then I met up Alana and Scott which of course was a total pleasure and trip all at once.
The next day Nic, Dom and myself headed back to the 'Milks. After a Warm-up solo on the dome I headed over to Dales Camp and was able to quikly finish an absolute incredible boulder 'Zen Flute V10' that finishes with an all points off dyno. So so sooooo good.
Some other nice boulders that I have climbed in the last couple of days are 'Disco Diva V8'& 'Get Carter V8' and in the icy super cold conditions of today I ripped of the last move of 'Toxic Avenger V10' with blood spraying from my right hand. It is very cold and staying psyched is easy but keeping the body in good shape is something else all together. So there is the whirlwind of recent activity and with Hueco on the horizon life is very cold but oh so good!!
AR

Bishop, avoiding the Apocalyptic storm & The Inland Empire

If you are anywhere amongst the west coast of the united states you are aware that weather has been an issue if you like climbing rocks. Huge weather systems seem to be coming in from the Pacific. Bishop was no exception.
Prior to the storm we had a few small windows of climbable weather. I was able to make quick work of some great problems like 'Soul Slinger V9', 'Freeze Short V9' in two tries, and the 'Croft Problem V8'. I also tried an amazing problem, 'Zen Flute V10', that was originally put up by Sharma. This climb came so so close a to a one day ascent but because it is so amazing and classic I am just as psyched to head back.
I headed down to the Inland Empire with good friend Dominique in an effort to change the scene as the storm of impending doom was sitting on our doorstep, or tail-gate as it would be for me. I have been able to catch up with amazing people and great friends from the road. I have seen and will continue to check out the gym climbing scene as the weather seems to be unrelenting. I have been able to gain some accounts for A-Balm and stop by to meet the gang at Five Ten in Redlands.
It seems like true happiness in climbing on the road is more about the ability to adapt than to follow plans and this has been just another great chapter. Hope everyone has been able to adapt to the weather and stay psyched.
AR
PS-I have added a few images. The First is me sending "Pine Box V11/12". The Second is myself on 'Thriller V10'. The third is me sending an amazing V8 in Ibex that I was reminded of recently.

Bishop & the sheddin'

So I have made it to Bishop but much more has happened as the title implies. I am still recoverying from some 'knock you on yo ass' bug that I picked up in the valley so hopefully I can put that on my shedded list soon. Turns out being sick messes with ones climbing...hmmm woulda guessed. Despite the heat that has been hitting Bishop I have managed a couple nice boulders. 'Brian's Project V9','Rave V7' and some rad patina V7. All went very quikley, within a few goes for all.
Before I left I shaved my head on very long hair in an attempt to draw a close to the past and begin this new leg as just that, new. I now reside in the bed of GMC truck and am hopefully awaiting some healthier times and cooler temps. Love to all. Ciau
AR

Pine Box

Yesterday I made an ascent of an amazing steep and tall granite arete called 'Pine Box V11/12'. It had exfoliated a little bit as it is a new problem found and climbed by my friend Justin Alarcon. The lips on two of the holds had significantly decreased which made the climb much harder and forced different beta than the original condition dictated. The boulder also goes under the full value category as the top out is committing and sequence dependent. The grade is a bit of a question mark but I had an extremely fun time climbing on it and it is double digit-something. I will add some images of the ascent soon and hope you are all out there enjoying cool conditions.

AR

On the Migration Station

Lack of a computer has done a bit to stifle the update train but lets get it back on track. A bout of really nasty weather pretty much California as a whole and unlike the dry rockies and desert environments Yosemite Valley holds onto its moisture like a pit-bulls lock-jaw. So that meant training on a wet 45woody in the back yard. After sufficiently loosing my mind with not climbing I acquires a radical camera and proceeded to take shots of everything under the sun, which ended up being little because we were socked in with gloomy clouds for quite some time. And just when the world seemed to be getting smaller by the minute without any rock-scaling in the over a week my phone decided to snap in half, which of course exasperated the walls that were actually closing in!!

But alas the clouds broke long enough to allow some modicum of climbing conditions and I knew it was time to get back to the Valley, wet or not. I permanently left my dwellings in Fresno and waved goodbye to all that chapter held and didn't hold alike. A one way trip to the Valley, it was not planned and logistically its been a bit of an epic but the absolute right move to make.

Upon my drop off I met up with the Colorado Crew and and the vibe was on. So Psyched to be back into it. As a psyched climber it seems that the overlap with drug addicts is closer than some might like to acknowledge. Life was good and the vibes were excellent and the session productive. I tried 'Yabo Roof V11/12' and surprised myself and then came very close to the 'Yabo Face V11' in just a couple of goes and Chris Shulte snapped up the second ascent, good work. I am super psyched on getting back to this boulder and it stellar problems.

The next day reunion with Pete led to some classic climbing in cap four which was a blast including the historical rocks such as 'Cocaine Corner V5', 'Blue Suede Shoes V4', 'Initial Friction V1' ect, ect.

Then came the rain. This would be extremely news worthy except my lack of tent and appropriate sleeping bag prompted quite the search for overhanging(read; dry) ground to sleep. And for those that know about Yosemite granite this can be few and far between. After some very cold sleepless nights and equally rough rest days the conditions allowed climbing again. I climbed an amazing problem called, 'Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass V9' on the infamous Columbia Boulder. I sent very quickly which set good spirits for me and the fun just continued. 

I think Bishop is next...

Note: The power of positivity and friendship in climbing has become more obvious than ever and it is the company we hold that makes the difference between a feeling of work and an explosion of excellence. Thanks to all the Bro's.

AR

Yosemite and the Fresno New New

Since we last spoke(by the way the most contrived method of opening a blog post) lots has happened.  I have sorta moved into the  starkly different Fresno, CA. Why, you might ask, this is certainly a great switch from your previous home, oh wait I did not have a home before this!! But in all seriousness my good friend Jacob lives in Fresno and as an active and staple developer of the Yosemite bouldering scene it seemed only appropriate that I take him up on his offer to crash and establish boulder problem in the famed 'Valley'. I have been down in this area for a week now and have already spent 4 days in the Valley, including today until a near tragic ankle sprain took my dear friend Catrina out of the game and sent us back to Fresno in hopes of speeding here rehab.

Although I feel like I am in total school learning the climbing style and technique required on not so steep granite I have managed to climb some stellar lines. 'The King V8', 'Silly Roof V7', 'Chocolate Bunny V6', 'The Diamond Left V6', 'Kudra V6' and flashing a nice V6(unnamed) in Camp 4 have been some highlights. It is taking alot but I am building that ever so important kinesthetic rolodex.

I arrived in Fresno via public train instead of gassing up a personal vehicle and since have been learning about electronics and their installation as part of my new 'tag along with Jacob' Job. Many hours have been spent carpooling back and forth to Yosemite Valley and these roads have now taken on quite the identity. They are no longer twisty winds up into the great sierras but an amalgam of provocative conversation leading to the ever expanding personal insight we all work so hard to gain. That is a whirlwind I know...but for now I wish all of you well and perhaps you will see me scouring the woods looking for boulders and wondering the streets lookin' for conversation. Just remember, "Not all who wonder are lost"

ARockstad

Hardly, Strictly...Love?Past?

Since we last spoke the past has come into the periphery of life in the most interesting of ways. On Friday the weather seemed grim for rock-scaling in Northern California so I decided to bounce up to San Fransisco with friend Pete Finn. The method travel was hitch-hiking at it purest, from the door of my house to Golden Gate Park it was all thumbs up. Five rides and less than two hours(Must be because I shaved and they could see my beautiful face) we were watching amazing free music in GGP courtesy of 'Hardly, Strictly, Bluegrass'. The objective for the day was to see Robert Plant play with Alison Krauss and this was achieved in geat style in help by many a great person along the way. I was also fortunate enough to has a bit of a listen to Elvis Costello, Micky Hart, topped of Iron & Wine.
There was time spent with old friends, thinking about old friends, strolls along Haight(Where Caroline Hooked it up!!!Nepotism-What What) of course the beats of LoveFest. All of which brought the past to the present. Amazing.
I usually keep the blog to climbing but as a break this is what I have been up to besides training. And to right and wrongs here are some nostalgia climbing shots at college hangouts like the Spray Boulder and Hueco Tanks, TX. Thanks for all the support.
Martini Roof, Hueco Tanks, TX, Photo:Craig Copeland
V7+ in the Spray Cave, ElevenMile, CO, Photos:Hayden Miller

Yosemite Facelift 2008

Still feelin' a little juiced from the long trip to Africa I was thinking more aout some local boulder reconnaissance but when I heard the Yosemite Facelift(note-an annual climber powered park wide clean-up) was going on starting on Wed and roling on through 'til Sunday I thought to myself why not? It was kind of a big trip from up here in wine country NorCal and called for several bus trips and an eventual meet up with a Craigs List ride from the bay area. After hours of interesting conversations with the local transportations proprietors I arrived in the majestic land known by many as 'The Valley'.
It was extremely hot(red-85degrees and up) everyday and I spent much of my time picking up trash and helping to organize the event which brought an amazing 50,000lbs of trash in from all over the park. I was psyched to be experiencing such an amazing part of climbing history from every angle and know I will spending a lot of time hear in the future.
I was psyched to climb and at least experience what all the talk was of Yosemite bouldering. I saw only a few of the areas, Camp 4, LeConte(KING AIR!!!), and the Cathedrals. As it was extremely hot I climbed at night when all were asleep and the event needed no more help for the day. The problems in Camp 4 move amazingly. Despite the heat I climbed 'Torque Spanner V8' and 'Ament Arete V6' very quikly after discovering there many tricks. I am psyched on a return to The Valley come some better temps and can now see the draw that pulls some people in and often never lets them go.

A family variety in NorCal

Yours truly post Africa
A beautiful beach session
The rightmost line, a classic
Me sending an amazing V6, name unknown
Today I headed out with my mom to hunt down some blocks here in Northern California. We were to meet up with friend and psyched climber Richie to get a little tour but there was a communication break down and it looked bleak for a minute. But not to worry, Richie hooked me up ith another psyched local, Ryan. Ryan has put a bunch of great work into developing these great boulders on the coast and beyond. Needless to say it is super rad to keep connecting with all these great psyched people and insta friends.
First stop was the Fort Ross Boulder. I was quite taken by climbing on the beach and as my friend Hayden can testify it is 'very powerful'. This boulder stands as a crown the joins the land with the Pacific Ocean. The tide was rising the whole day and was for sure giving the boulder some spray. The rock-type was a sandstone conglomerate and had very good friction. I was able to climb a proud and stout V6 but more importantly it felt good to move the body on stone again.
Next stop was to get a preview of some amazing blue schist crimping just inland. I am very psyched on spending time there in the near future and I also ended the day flashing a very nice and striking prow, 'Walk The Plank V6'. It was a god excursion. Friends were made, beaches were frolicked, crimps were had and boulders were climbed. Psyched.

Sweet Boulder, CA

A traversy line that Richie put up called "Astro Zombie V8'
The crimpy type of climbing suplied by schist

Today I went out to break my mold of comas, jetlag, and internet sleuthing. I am trying to get recovered from such a long session of rugged, cheap, and amenity devoid lifestyle. But Today I went to go and check out some boulder that a rad friend, Richie, had discovered. The rock type was a metamorphosed schist which made for some extremely crimpy and sharp climbing. I temps were hot and I cut my pads up pretty god but it was good to go on a mini-excursion in comparison and I at least got move my body over some stone. What I am really psyched for is tommarrow in which Richie will give a tour of the real biz. Stay tuned and here are some pics.

Africa Files 19- Thank You

The trip is now over and upon just preliminary reflection it was the raddest trip!!!!Super good in so many ways. I have so many thankyouzzzzz to be dropping to so many people that made my trip a success either through contact or just sharing moments together. I received amazing support from my dear friend Thys, whom owns and operates the Depakhuys Farm. For those looking for logistics upon Rocklands bouldering and organizing a trip you should feel free to leave a comment on my blog and I will get back to you and also give a good look at http://www.Depakhuys.com/ for pictures and a way to contact Thys. Depakhuys has an amazing campground with hit water and showers for the equivalent of US$5 a night with a lesser rate for longer stays, definatley the best deal in the Cederberg. There re also chalets for the indoors inclined sleepers that are quite nice. And most importantly there are some the most amazing boulders and bouldering sectors on the Depakhuys Farm including the famous Fields of Joy and Plateau Sectors. It is truely an amazing farm and one that I will call home again.
I would just like to say thank you to all of you that helped make this trip happen including you blog readers!!It was an amazing trip and your hosbitality and openess of the greatest bouldering areana I have ever seen is so appreciated...thank you.

Africa Files 18- The Wrap-Up

The last week in Rocklands proved to be troublesome with the weather but an amazing time full of things, not just climbing. The weather was sporadic at best with rain and Antarctic storms rolling through. I worked on a project with my friend Eric Klimt(CC Graduate). It was a movie about the industry of that climbing is growing into for the Cederberg region(read;Rocklands). It was full of interviews with climbers and landowners with the intent of educating and explaining the opportunities and future that climbing can bring to them. It was extremely well received when you showed it at a farmer gathering. I think that this is an important step in the progress and insurance in the climbing future of the Cederberg and felt great to be a part of that.
As for climbing I tried and sent some of the best problems of the trip. I went out on raining day with my buddy Pete and his newly arrived girl friend to finally try the beautiful 'Gliding THrough Waves Like Dolphins V11' I was a little bummed that I had not tried it until the very end of trip because it went extremely well. I flashed through a great deal of the problem and then ADD rampaged the rest of problem for two hours until it was fairly clear what my method would be. The increasing wetness eventually caused me leave but very psyched to return on a further trip.
I got in some good sessions at the Field of Joy sector on Depakhuys Farm that were for the most part dry. I was able to climb in the excellent Dirty Lies Cave for obvious dryness issues. I climbed 'Dirty Lies Right Exit V9' on my second go and the full line of 'Dirty Lies Extension V8/9?', it is hard for me t grade these ones because long climbing and links are not my forte and I don't have that much experience there but they were rad and quite obvious addition to current cave lines. I began giving 'No Late Tenders V11' send burns but I tweaked my shoulder and resigned that one to the next trip list. I also climbing this really rad gritty line 'Panic Room V7' that Klem put up some time ago. It was originally done with a fairly indirect finish that reahed the lip and then began traversing out around the corner on jugs but seamed fairly inobvious to me so and the crew set out to straighten it up and to finish it up with one of the only desperate topouts in all of Rocklands, for sure a great line now.
I was also fortunate to return to the Sassies Sector for one last day on thee great problems, but there is a catch. The catch was it happened to be a 90+Degree(F) day which is just another sign on the Cederberg season ending. This temperature offered an unexpected gift but we will get t that later. I climbed this super classic rad line 'Petite Hueco V8' which is made famous in Chuck's film Specimen. It was yet another very long boulder problems and extremely poor conditions so it felt like quite the accomplishment. I also tried this amazing problem called 'Paula Abdul V11' and made rad progress considering that I was only falling on one move but the rest were on lock down so it is another line to returned to, psyched for next season.

Africa Files-Part 17-Okay, back to climbing!!

Since we last spoke the Rocklands and thus myself experienced a hurricane like storm consisting of gale force wind up to 90km/ph which essentially decimated the campsite I have been running(aka massive clean up). Needless to say the internet has been down in the entire Cederberg region for a while, but were back.
On a personnal note I have been starting to return in strength, ability, and overall psyched after my health epic. My gas tank still feels very small and I get tired very quickly but I have been able to climb at a nice level again. On the last day of the storm I had the privelege of watch Dosage 5, and must say that I am super psyched with this end product from the prolific climbing film maker Josh Lowell, a Colorado College grad no less. This came at an excellent time because the next day was wet but climbable and I went out for a session in which to my surprise I climbed 'Human Energy V8' and 'Human Energy Direct V7' both on my second go. I was way psyched to be able to move my body again after so much downtime. The next day I tried climbing again I climbed a bunch of beautiful climbs, such as 'Esoterrorist V6' second go. At the end of day I headed to the classic Poison Dwarf boulder to try the direct to a line that I had already done 'Poison Dwarf V8'. The direct was originally graded V11 or 8A but to me seemed to be the true line on the boulder that combines all the best moves. So I set to work on the additional three crux moves to the direct and eventually got them. Then I decided to get a link of the upper moves and I pulled that off, psyched into the progress of that alone I knew the whole boulder was a possibility but it was getting dark and I had not eaten in hours and skin was low. My friend Eric Klimt had lent me his iPod as a climbing partner for the day and MIA seemed a comical and psyche filled option to be listening to as I contemplated the whole boulder. Alright, time for the 'try hard' attempt but a beta fumble caused an early departure from the rock. So there I sat completely psyched and almost in the darkness alone trying to muster a send that would mean a bunch after my hospitalization. I told myself if this goes well I will take a rest on the next day. Paper Planes the MIA song came on and I thought it appropriate to make my attempt on 'Poison Dwarf Direct V9?'. Totally psyched I pulled through all the moves with great execution an then I was topping out, SO PSYCHED. It felt so great to be back and part of rock-climbing again. So as I promised myself I took the next day off and it was a good thing because I was gassed.
The next climbing day I tried this rad problem called 'Throw Yourself Away V11' as I supported my friend Matt Ballard on an amazing problem 'Born Into Struggle V9' that I had done before my incident. Matt is a centimeter away from sending and I am sure the next we go up he will dispatch. I was also surprise because I just have to do one more move on 'Throw Yourself Away V11' and then it could go. After this session Matt and I headed to another cave because of the heat in an effort to stay away from the sun and to try a problem called 'Louder Than Bombs V9'. We had a great session and at the end I pulled out a one day ascent that I am really happy with. So now it is another day of because as I mention earlier my stamina is minimal but I am psyched. I am climbing well and I feel nowhere near my top shape yet, so I am extremey psyched!!On climbing and the direction I am on. AR

Africa Files-Part 16-Pics

Just another bry fire as per usual around deez parts
My dirty nature upon hospital admittance, notice the banana
My new threads for some english patient time, Thanks Matt
Pete on 'Creaking Heights V4'
Danny a great and myself chillin', prone to mischief

Africa Files- Part 15-The Return

So at the beginning of the week I returned back to this home I have carved out in the Cederberg mountains. It was great to see the friendly faces of climbers and such that I have really bonded with already.
It has been an interesting mix of gratefulness and disheartening, because I am able to rock-climb again but my body took quite the knock with this whole ordeal and the reality is my physical state shows this. Like I said not a bummer but just an interesting dichotomy. That being said I have made it to the top of some things. I did 'Dirty Lies V8' in a few minutes after falling on the top out during the flash. I worked 'Nutsa V12', it sounds really hard but with the quikness that I did 'Sunset Arete V9' it is surprisingly close feeling. At the end of the day I feel ripped up and soar though which is quite the new feeling. Hopefully this is all for the best and I have some more great rock-scaling ahead of me.
I have done some internet sleuthing in my down time and must say that it is good hear about all the psyche and good climbing happening in CO and hope that it continues. I will also put in some great shots that my friend Matt took of my first day back so stay tuned and most importantly stay psyched. AR

Africa Files- Part 14-The Rest/Rehab

Atop the beautufl Table Mountain
Looking down a Table Mountain gully into CPT
A Lizard I chilled with atop the mountain, these guys aren't affraid of no ghosts
The bluffs of the twelve appostles into the Atlantic side

Since the last post I have been resting at my dear friends Carol and Stu's house in Cape Town. It has been really excellent to drop off of the radar(my own included) and just recover from 'that epic'. I have been sleeping alot and consuming great amounts of food in an effortto regain myself. It seems to have worked as well and I am feeling mostly myself again. With almost a week of rest under my belt I have made two quike little adventures, one up to the top of Table Mountain in CPT and the second to Fish Hoek Beach. I am including some pictures of Table Mountain so one can see how beautiful this Cape Town landmark is. On Sunday I head back to Rocklands with renewed psyche, so lets see what happens-AR

Africa Files-Part13.5-The Epic(cont'd)

Now that the sponge bath was finished it was time to return to my nice old rusty bed. I spent the rest of the day watching my arm to see if the streaks that were heading up my bicep were indeed to stop with the anti-bodies now in my system or to continue to a much more serious state. Eventually the nurse came in a turned on a TV and low and behold possibly the greatest movie of time was playing, Beverley Hills Ninja. So there I lay as an African English Patient and watch Chris Farley, what a life.
Next thing I know I am being woken with great speed as though something is the matter but I soon found that they just don't believe in bed rest and they felt compelled to wake me up pumping a higher dose of anti-bodies into my arm which are very cold compared to the bodies temperature of 98.6DegreesF. The new fluid to my body burns through your vein structure. The sun rose and the day began to pass but the nurses had not come back in to washthe wound as they said and I just took matters into my own hands, literally. I cleaned the wound and then resumed my horizontal life on the bed.
In the late afternoon my friends Greg and Magda came in to the room to check on me and upon my explaination of the stay thus far we all concluded that I should bounce to Cape Town with them. Magda throwing down the local Africaans tongue like a champ and Greg setting up a crash pad bed in the back of his truck I made my exit. Three hours in the back of there truck(bucky) and we were in Sumerset West a town outside of CPT. In the morning Greg drove me a house in the south of CPT were I now reside with my friends and great people Carol and Stuart. After all of this I am quite ready for a break from the mountains and am in need of gettingthis infection squashed. So for now it is avocado sandwhiches in the beautiful botanical back yard Carol and Stu, a welcomed break. AR

Africa Files-Part 13-A series of Unfortunate Events

Hello to al my friend in blog land. I have some less than good news to report, it involves borrwed cars, lots of speeding, needles, hospitals, scalpals, overweight nurses and the subsequent spunge bath, hours in the back of trucks and eventually and delicous avocado on toast.
So it began with a morning and beautiful morning at that. Upon waking I noticed a small red dot on my arm. Thinking nothing of it I relished in my newfound comfort of a shower at the campground. Went boulding as per-usual and felt very strong despite all day I never really accomplished much as I could not generate full power from my left hand. A little bit bummed by the seemingly unbalanced day of feeling realy strong but accomplishing little I retired to camp and jolined everybody to the bar that night as it was a friday and people were looking to get out of the mountains. I got to unleash my dance-bone and lets just say that Africa may not have been ready for a mix of me and euro-trash techno but they certainly jumped aboard quikly. BUt I had to crash pretty early because everything was just feelinga bit off. In the morning I woke and the light through my tent cast everything a red color so indeed my arm showed red but when I vacated the tent my arm was red for reasons independent of the light. There had been an incredible amount of swelling and I knew that something was going down in a bad way. I asked when people were heading into town and with no definate answers being given I convinced Danny a British climber to let me take his car in and grab him food/get me to the doc on the asap. I took his Daihaitsu to unpresedented speeds of the pass and later dirt roads. In other words I made a 30 trip in 14 minutes. Picked up my friend Matt in town and left him the car and booked it to the doctor. While explaining the urgency to the receptionist the doctor walked in and upon a first glance said that I would be heading to the hospital but as he is the only doctor for the hospital as well it was going to be a while until he could get around to helping me(ie-The Tri-Nations Rugby match was about to come on). Being a persistent young fellow that I am I convinced him to at least start the treatment in his office. The treatment turned out to be the doctor cutting my arm open on his desk with no anesthetic(Speachless Pain) and venomous ooze began to pour from my arm.
Okay, so now I though it is time to get to the hospital but when I stepped outside I couold not find Matt or the car so I bouced the Police Station and requested an immediate ride. So there I am now again in a cop truck in AFrica except this time flying through traffic with a hole in my arm. I got admitted and when they saw that underneath all of my dirtyness I was white they asked whether I would be paying or had a health card? I said health acrd and I was taken to a seperate wing of the hospital. I git an IV plugged in with antibodies and there I was upon another adventure. NOw it was just a waiting game to find out if we could reverse the blood poisoning and I just lay there watching my arm to see whether the streaks were indeed continuing up my arm or where now receading. The nurse seemed to be quite sure that all of this trauma was happening because I wore sandals and climbed rocks and have a mono dread and as a result she was insistent that I change cloths but only after being scrubbed by her. She made my homie Matt get me some new threads at the store(thanks Matt) and it was off to a spong bath.Sparing the detalis it was a humorous occasion.

Africa Files-Part 13-A Series of unfortunate events

Hello to al my friend in blog land. I have some less than good news to report, it involves borrwed cars, lots of speeding, needles, hospitals, scalpals, overweight nurses and the subsequent spunge bath, hours in the back of trucks and eventually and delicous avocado on toast.
So it began with a morning and beautiful morning at that. Upon waking I noticed a small red dot on my arm. Thinking nothing of it I relished in my newfound comfort of a shower at the campground. Went boulding as per-usual and felt very strong despite all day I never really accomplished much as I could not generate full power from my left hand. A little bit bummed by the seemingly unbalanced day of feeling realy strong but accomplishing little I retired to camp and jolined everybody to the bar that night as it was a friday and people were looking to get out of the mountains. I got to unleash my dance-bone and lets just say that Africa may not have been ready for a mix of me and euro-trash techno but they certainly jumped aboard quikly. BUt I had to crash pretty early because everything was just feelinga bit off. In the morning I woke and the light through my tent cast everything a red color so indeed my arm showed red but when I vacated the tent my arm was red for reasons independent of the light. There had been an incredible amount of swelling and I knew that something was going down in a bad way. I asked when people were heading into town and with no definate answers being given I convinced Danny a British climber to let me take his car in and grab him food/get me to the doc on the asap. I took his Daihaitsu to unpresedented speeds of the pass and later dirt roads. In other words I made a 30 trip in 14 minutes. Picked up my friend Matt in town and left him the car and booked it to the doctor. While explaining the urgency to the receptionist the doctor walked in and upon a first glance said that I would be heading to the hospital but as he is the only doctor for the hospital as well it was going to be a while until he could get around to helping me(ie-The Tri-Nations Rugby match was about to come on). Being a persistent young fellow that I am I convinced him to at least start the treatment in his office. The treatment turned out to be the doctor cutting my arm open on his desk with no anesthetic(Speachless Pain) and venomous ooze began to pour from my arm.
Okay, so now I though it is time to get to the hospital but when I stepped outside I couold not find Matt or the car so I bouced the Police Station and requested an immediate ride. So there I am now again in a cop truck in AFrica except this time flying through traffic with a hole in my arm. I got admitted and when they saw that underneath all of my dirtyness I was white they asked whether I would be paying or had a health card? I said health acrd and I was taken to a seperate wing of the hospital. I git an IV plugged in with antibodies and there I was upon another adventure. NOw it was just a waiting game to find out if we could reverse the blood poisoning and I just lay there watching my arm to see whether the streaks were indeed continuing up my arm or where now receading. The nurse seemed to be quite sure that all of this trauma was happening because I wore sandals and climbed rocks and have a mono dread and as a result she was insistent that I change cloths but only after being scrubbed by her. She made my homie Matt get me some new threads at the store(thanks Matt) and it was off to a spong bath.Sparing the detalis it was a humorous occasion.

Africa Files- Part 11-The Fresh and the New New

Africa, how great and new she can feel when you just move out of an abandoned old crack house and back into your tent in the company of great new homies. I have been changing it all up, I have been doing manual labor(ie-building shit yo) and showering(go-figure). But even more so I feel way psyched to go rock climbing in a new spot on new problems and just feel anew. It was very hot the other day(80F) but I was still able to put good effort in and make quick work of 'Born into Struggle V9' and 'Poison Dwarf V8'. Then I went sport climbing to really mix things up and really almost flashed 5.12? and ended up doing it second go and it felt real nice to do things completely different. Spice, spice the spice of life. Love to all and enjoy the pictures.
AR

Is that a bouldering brush in my pants or am I just happy to have sent?

Demi Lune V4. Super classic. Unfortunately my gangle bone covers up most of the problem in the picture.

Now see here, dames. we call this one Ulam. He's not to be trusted. Small crimps, big moves, he's shifty, see? Sometimes I talk like this, copper, and there is nothing you can do about it. (in 1920s gangster voice)

Sicky problem at Riverside. The name is Au pie delans leau or something equally French.

Cedar Spine, baby!

The top out looked too easy so I dyno'd the motha'. What the picture doesn't show is my spotter running for cover.

Africa Files-Part 10-My Ho is gone and the Move

Hello everybody out there in blog-land. A few major things have changed since we last spoke. First of all Zaych left, but not without making his project go down in quike form, 'NBA Jamz V8'. It was such a rad adventure and absolutley crucial to have a master of travel to accompany me for this voyage of Africa proportions. Lets all wish Zaych the luck on his ways to becoming a doctor of astro physics, see you soon doc.
Last night I relocated to De Pakhuys, which is essentially a wonderland of climbing camps. It already has been a blast with big communal dinners and a bunch of great people from all over the world expollsions and all. Much more to come and many pictures as I am able to use the internet here. Alsi I did 'Minkki V8' in super quike form and is just another unbelievable rad line.
AR

Africa Files-Part 10-Some Epics

Today Zaych and decided that is was indeed in our favor to have a second rest day and heal up the body and the skin. This proved to be exceptionally important as Zaych had been crimping like a machine these last couple of weeks. This resulted in a some internal tears of the tissue and an infection to spring up. As one can imagine this is a mega bummer for a climbing trip to have your ring finger pad out of commission and in immense pain. But like the team we have become we decided it was time to stop at a South African doctor and get that mother taken care of. An hour from that decision we had already hitched a ride into the town visited a doctor and Zaych received a giant needle to the finger and manually drained it! The specifics are confidential but lets just say that Zaych earned some mega gnar points(reference previous posts). The plan is to get one more boulder problem finished, 'White Mazda Clan V10', before leaving our little crack-house and joining the masses at Depaukey's. Media to come I assure you-AR

Africa Files-Part 9-The Life(an update)

Just an update on the goings ons of my trip. All is well and Zaych and myself are feeling healthy and psyched. I did an amazing line yesterday called 'Black Spider V9' which felt very hard for because of its length and word has it that it harder 5.13, who knows? But it was a great line and a great time. The weather has been really ADD from hour to hour and day to day so our psyched nature is really working well. To all you who wants some media, I have been harvesting it. But idle threats will do you no good. You must use a carrot with this horsie. Like I said just a little update but to end I will add some facts of life as I have found them.

Facts;-Rock-Scaling seams to just not lose its fun for me and I am perpetually psyched, even a surprise for me sometime.
-I feel better about the world knowing Jaeger is out there finding new boulders and using his gnar beam on all geology/friends/and authorities alike
-The Rocklands are truly staggering and yes my knees have buckled
-PB&Jays are a 10 out of 10

Psyched and with love-Ander

Africa Files-Part 8-The Best Boulder Problem Ever?

Alright, here is the deal, I think some are prompt to exaggerate when it comes to preaching about how classic a boulder really is. And perhaps I am now joining those ranks. But I found the 'Cedar Spine SDS V9' to be what I would consider truly 5 Stars. I had only a few minutes with this beast two weeks ago and was only able to try the stand start. This problem takes many pads and since I seam to be lacking in the quantity but not the quality(Thank you Josh-ORGANIC_WHAT WHAT) I was at the whim of the crowd. So I did this great problem in stand start form in about three goes but knew the full beauty was yet to come. Yesterday I found people at this problem and got a few minutes to suss beta for the SDS. I gave her a link and fell at the last move(big air-fun/scary), then everybody decided they were ready to move on. Bummer!! It seemed as though yet again I had caught a tail end of a session and chalked it up to a typical saying, "Sometimes that's the way the cookie crumbles". Zaych and I tried a few more problem and at the end of the day I gave some nice Italians some beta and informed them that they perhaps had left a chalk bag over by that great problem. As luck/fate would have it one of the Italians wanted to see the spine and as the sun was setting I was able to assemble the minimum pad quota. So I gate it a go to warm up and fell at the last and very high move again. Then the Italians were talking about leaving as it was actually getting quite dark. The Italian told me we both had more go. He had a nice go from the stand and this really left me with some business. At the mercy of the pad situation yet again I just decided to enjoy this great and try really really hard as it was actually dark at this point(no head-lamp). I floated through the bottom and just took a second to breath and enjoy the climbing at about the half way point. Finally the last move came and I just decided to lock-off and put a little hop to my step for the final latch and the super man air that was to come. An ascent that really meant something for me and great realization. A truly beautiful climb and a beautiful moment!! So Pysched.

Some thoughts from a great man

Ben Rubin has sent us(Zaych & myself) some great vibes thius whole trip and helped us with some stateside communication which we appreciated a bunch. His latest installment has been profound, check it out.

"I'm glad to hear that all is going well. Keep on sending plenty of
gnar. I was once told by and elderly gentleman that gnar does not
necessarily come in the form climbing. Rather, he said, that gnar
points come from doing simple acts in an extreme manner. So, going to
the store...on roller skates would equate to about +3 gnar. Rock
climbing 5.10+ would be about +9 gnar points. I mean it just depends.
Like today, I'm going to work but I as well will be "sending the
gnar" by throwing trays to the customers (+1 gnar).

Gnar is the SI unit of extremeness and awesomeness. 1 Gnar (gR) is
measured as the Mass of the doer divided by the mass of the recipient
object plus 3 kilajoules. This is then taken to the power of 7
divided by the gravitational field of the mass of the object. The
equation looks someting like:

((M1/M2) + 3kJ)^(7/Grav Field M2)

I think if you use this equation, you'll find that most everyday
activites have some sort of gnar level. However, most gnar
calculators these days round too much such that most everyday
activities do not read on the gnarometer.

I guess Time magazine or some publication had a small article about
the gnar-liest man out there. Apparently, Elvis has taken the cake
for the past 20 years. It seems that all the publicity he still gets
and all the impersonators contribute greatly to his gnar factor
(f(gR)).

Who woulda thunk?

-Ben"
Zaych and myself have been activating our much needed rest bones. -Ander

Africa Files-Part 7- The Media

Africa Files- Part 6-The Actual Climbing

Zack and I have really started to get into good groove and the great weather has allowed for the climbing on all the days we feel it. I have been feelin' great and climbing at least a V8 or harder everyday. Zaych has been climbing his best and now sent a 'A Question of Balance V8', which I sent as well and we both decided that this may be the greatest problem yet. After a rest day we went to the famous Roadside boulders and had on of the best and most tiring days ever. I started by onsighting a classic highball 'Creaking Hights V5' and then quickly dispatched with 'A Question of Balance V8' and 'Sunset Arete V9' with were both absolutely excellent and a real dream come true. We took our mandatory PB&J break and ran around to see all of the beautiful boulders. I decided to try one more problem and warmed back up. Within a few minutes I did another great V8 which just capped off a beautiful day.
The next day(yesturday) Zaych and myself got picked up by the great and welcoming Amy & Jon and went back to the Roadside for the morning. Feelin' really tired and low on skin the V6's took a couple of goes. I eventually got warm and started to work on a great dynamic problem 'A Pinch of Herbs V10ish'. I got really really close for the quick ascent but will just have to enjoy this line another day. Psyched. We then walked up to the Roadcrew boulders where Amy and Jon had some people to meet. Feelin' super low on skin and energy I had to chill for a few minutes but then could not help but get psyched on this line of a problem called 'Rooi Klavier V9'. It took some real deep efforts and a few breaks but I was able to send it and in real good form. I talked to Andy Mann over at 'Amandala V15' and it sounds like him and his crew have been having a blast. Got to experience Paul Robinson sending this amazing line in good one day style, amazing. Daniel Woods seemed really close and I am sure will get it as well.
I have a better internet connection and will try to post some media. But having the time of my life and I send my best to all you greats out there. SO SO PSYCHED...

Africa Files Part 5-The Rain/Climbing

There could not be a better match of people than Zaych and myself as the time spent in that small room amongst the humidity was a blast in its own not climbing way. Finally I snapped and with some beta from a local I found a traverse that does not top out that stays dry. The rock was dry but I was not and I brough and extra set of clothes. After changing I warmed-up by trying to flash the trav and after three goes I dispatched the first bould problem of the trip, 'The Egg Files V8'. Game on!!
Over the last couple of days Zaych and I have beem climbing and sending with great speed. More and more to come. For a full list of sends before the next entry check out my 8a.nu link. Lots of Love to these great universe & SOPSYCHED!!

Africa Files Part 4-The Rain

As fate would reveal we showed up in the Rocklands at the wettest rainy spell in which the flooding was unbelievable. A long story turned short we arranged with the farmer whom owns this property to inhabit/clean up his crack house that was in total diseray. Zaych and myself quikly made it quite the home. Pictures are included. We sat out some 5plus days of unbelievable torture rain.

Africa Files Part 3-Getting to the Rocklands

One step closer and now in Capetown Zaych and myself investigated bus routes to Clanwilliam because we were detered from hitch-hicking(weather and safety). We got on a bus and within six hours were dropped off in the middle of the night along route 7, miles from Clanwilliam still. WE put on some thinking caps found a payphone and called the police, yes the police and they agreed to pick us up and bring us to Clanwilliam. Yet one step closer to rock. Once in CW we convinced the police to drive us into the mountains and drop us off at the abandoned campground but not before making several rounds through the town in an effort to control the drunken saturday night herds. We eventualy got dropped off at the campground in the pouring rain.

Africa Files Part 2 Cape Town

Once I arrived in Capetown I got the exciting oppertunity to wait 12hrs for Zack. All the while hoping that any of the ride prospects could work out. It turns out none of them did and I finally got some much needed sleep on my old friend the crash pad. Then the man himself (Zaych Money) came and it was full swing for the good vibes and the laughs that hurt your face. We stormed up some ideas as to how we were going to get to the rocklands. We played a bunch of shirtless hachy sack, the janitors thought it was funny to say the least. Long story short we arranged for a friend of a friends ex-boyfriend's mother to save us from the lights and persistent music of the airport.

African Files Part 1

Alright here is the deal, Africa is blowing my mind and we(Zack Rubin) have been pushing our adventure to the fullest. I am going to break it dfown the best I can. The first step was the adventure of the airports. I spent 70plus hours in airports. Canada and England were the main stops. Meet some great people along the way. Pulled change out of theseets in London's airport to us some internet and tryto establish who if any one was to indeed retrieve Zack and myself from the airport in Capetown. I sat next to great artist on my final leg to Africa and just talked through my concepts and experiences. I watch 10 movies in total and have seen enough romantic comedies at this point to make any relationship work.

The Washington Wrap-Up

My time in Washington is coming to an end. It has been great and not at all what I was planning or expecting. I would like to send the biggest of thank you's to all that have made this a rad little adventure. The hospitality of the Zimmerman's, Bret, and the Miller's made it all possible for sure. Also thank you to the new friends acquired on the road, Mr. Joe(whom climbs and saves the trees!!), Dale & Amy of Leavenworth(CC Grads) and all the rest. Less than 48hours I am bound for AFRICA!! SO Psyched.

My time in Leavenworth ended up being extremely hot and I found it hard to take any rest. I did some more rad problems and work some of the best lines out there. Bret came and picked me up on Sat and of course it was hot(100Degrees), the whopping triple digits. Needless this made it hard too finish off a few double digits problems. I gave 'The Coffee Cup V10' a few more whirls in the heat and made a bunch of progress, I though it might go but the ouzzzzze from my tips prevailed. Bret found the same symptoms on a rad extension of dangle V10ish as well. So we bailed to Index to try 'Hagakure V12ish'. After some great burns on that we bailed once again to the river boulders. We had a blast cooling off in the river and climbing a bunch of V-moderates over the water. Then we scrubbed down a boulder for what would surely be the first ascents of the season. We did this really cool problem 'Whore Hole V8ish' named for one of the vicious holds you must sink your meet hooks on. 

Today Bret and I headed back out to Index. It was even hotter than Sat. We both went to hang with the Five Ten guys and try and climb as much as we could. We climb the river boulders circuit again and again and watched some rafters get flipped in the white-water. Tomorrow it is back to CA and to prep for South Africa.

Leavenworth Con't

Alright here is the deal gang. The summer is super hot in Leavenworth, I am talking 100Degrees-F. Basically I wake up on the crash pads melting and start the day with an all to normal(at this point)amond butter covered blueberry bagel. Then I hit the river which is actually near freezing still. Then it is time to make a pilgramage to where ever the universe desiced to take me via hitch hicking(usually end up in town) and then return for some possible cool night time temps. Today I got picked up by a rad guy nammed Dale and through a bit of conversation we found that him and his wife graduated from Colorado College the year I was born(crazy), so I helped them move for much of the day and it sounds like we will chase some better temps latter tonight.
Despite the heat I have done some rad problems and worked on some mega rad problems as well. I tried the 'Coffee Cup V10' and came super close, I am psyched to try it again. Hopefully there will be some good news for an update tonight. Staying Psyched.

Back to L-Town

I am in Leavenworth for a little rest and escape from the heat. Dont you just love public libraries? It does feel good to be outside and this climbing journey again. Without a car living and travelling and especially climbing is mega mega hard, which is truely a bummer. But whatever it takes right.
Despite the heat I have been climbing pretty well. Mt skin really only holds up for an hour or so a day but I still have a done some great boulder problems. 'The Shield V7', 'Backdoor Ass Attack V7', and 'Drill Sargent V8' all went down and extremely quikely. I will post more as I can but I hope all are getting out there and enjoying some rock-scaling. PSYCHED!!

Index+All the Love=The Life

Basically I have entered stage three of Washington time. Stage one was actually climbing in Leavenworth and absolutely loving it, just super psyched. Stage two was down time in Seattle while Hayden was recovering from the same wisdom teeth procedure that I had and the climbing of this stage was sparse and tough to make happen. Now I am enjoying and learning a bunch in stage three which is about spending time with the people I love and the people that love me, essentially the common denominator being goodness. I have been snatched up in the loving embraces of the Zimmerman's and we have already shared allot of great times.
Now in stage three the climbing will take stage again. I am heading out to Leavenworth again, this time with the great Graham and Joe. They are going to put in some serious pitch time and I am going to pebble wrestle my brains out, psyched!! Then I get left out there to fend for myself with some ad lib camping, hitching , and hopefully tons of great rock-scaling. I will stay until it is time to get a move on for CA and then to the great South Africa. Wish me luck on my hobo-bouldering adventure.
Today Graham and myself got the last minute chance to go and climb in Goldbar. The conditions were horrible but I was mega psyched to try this rad line called the 'Rubik's Cube V9'. I had a little bit of a heart break sliding off the lock-off last move due to mega heat and humidity. A rough break but climbing is still the goodness and I would rather the heat than no climbing at all. After which we rolled over to the next town of Index which is trying to save their local forests from clear cutting. We gave them some support, talked with them really loe how it brought these great people together. Keep up the good work Joe at the Cascade Land Conservation(CLC) and the people of Index, WA. AR_OUT...

Index, yes Washington has more and more GOODZ

'Leggo My Ego V7'
'Box Car Arete V8'
Here is the deal, Washington just keeps delivering with good granite and totally unpredictable weather. Brian Boyko, Hayden and myself bunced out of the Seattle metro thrutch to get our selves to some known and lesser known bouldering in Index. Index is rad trad climbing wall area that is very similar to Squamish. As is the case with most granite crags that I know of there are great boulders at the base, just think Squamish with better granite and few people around. I was mega psyched to climb on these boulders that seemed to create amazing moves as well as holds. I climbed something called 'Leggo-My-Ego' which was probably V6 and V8. After which we took a look at the boulder on/in the river that resembled Swizzy river blocks and was shown around around by this rad dude named Joel. Then it started to rain and it looked as though the day was over but we hungout with some super friendly guys Mike and Cole and the rain stopped. We climbed the 'Box Car Arete V8'  while it was very wet still. We all did it, but at the point in which you are standing and must make a beached whale like top out Boyko and I decided that our climbing futures were worth just to much and bizzzounced. Another rad day and now I am staying with Mr. Graham Zimmerman and his loving family and hopefully will be climbing outside again very soon.

Pictures from Goldbar

An amazing V-Fun to warmup at Goldbar
Me sending 'Water V7'
Me Sending 'WaterV7'

Gold Bar Cont'd

It was kind of a bummer day yesterday hoping that Hayden's car would get fixed in time for some kind of rock-scaling session. But it eventually appeared that it would not come to fruition. But as fate would have a dear friend of mine and monster in the alpine environment, Graham Zimmerman came to the rescue. Graham was psyched on pulling some granite and the fact that we had not kicked it since the days of dirt-bagging in Australia, so that made it a win win, fo sho. We got up there pretty late but climbed some cool aesthetic warm ups and then I climbed this rad techy crimp problem 'Water V7'. Then went and tried this super amazing problem called 'The Rubik's Cube V9', I did all the moves really quickly despite the heat and then fell near the end from the start. I am super psyched on trying it again. It was a rad day that was salvaged from the glooms of a auto bummer and any day spent with Mr. Zimmerman is a good one. Hopefully more climbing in the future.

Goldbar=Thumbs Up----Car Trouble=Thumbs Down

Here is the dealio, Goldbar, WA is just about the coolest granit that I have grabbed and or seen. It is really amazing how featured and varied the spots are. The forest area was super similar to Squamish and the Clearcut area was amazing and very talus field in nature. Super cools holds that made super cool moves between them. Team Burgle, which usually is compiled of Hayden and myself gained a member today which means I gots to climb with friend Brian Boyko who was a, "Sack-o-potatoes"(his own words) but still climbed the mega cool 'Lighten Up V9'. We all did this rad number called 'Doja V7', and Hayden finished off 'Dave's Problem V10'. Good work to all, for sure a great day. Now the bummer, it looks like the oil pan got knocked up and the car had to get towed. Bummer. But we had some really funny characters as tow-truck drivers. We are working to get back out there and gets back to what we love, Rock-climbing.

Graduation!! & other beautiful things (aka Granite)

Hayden Miller on Answer Man (V6)

Me on The Terrible (V7) Photo: Hayden Miller

I just graduated from college and I am psyched about it. A wild ride, definitely a great session and one more stage along this trip. After words I really wanted to spend some time in my favorite places in Colorado before leaving and resuming a vagabond existence. So I took my mom and friends up to Mt. Evans, despite the post-holing we made it in for several days of FA's and repeating some of those classic problems in that amazing glacial cirque.
I am now kickin' it with my homie Hayden(H-Mill) in Washington and getting to experience even more amazing granite(i.e. Leavenworth). I have been climbing really well and feeling good and connected with the rock despite the giant wounds in my mouth from a complicated Wisdom Teeth removal. Seriously Leavenworth is amazing and certain boulders have blown my mind and I am super psyched to climb these things. PSYCHED!!